Zippkits Tugster Instruction Manual
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Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
Tugster
Tug Boat
Competition or Sport Tug Kit
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2018 JMP Hobby Group –Indiana USA
www.zippkits.com
Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP
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The Zippkits Tugster was developed from the very popular Springer class models.
The Tugster is really great at just putting around, or retrieving dead boats and seaplanes.
One of the best things to do with your Tugster is to play water polo. Use a mini soccer ball and our
included Push Knee kit.
Set up simple goals and try to capture the ball and get it through the opponent’s goal.
The fun is proportional to the number of boats.
Tip: use some sort of rub strip around your boat. Competition can get intense, and collisions are common.
A rub strip helps protect your paint job.
Suitable for all skill levels and ages, this kit is fully customizable. We supply our standard “Indiana” wheel
house, but you can purchase optional wheel houses and superstructure kits from us, as well as make
your own from scratch.
Maybe model it after a tug you like?
However you decide to finish it, take the time to read this entire manual, so that you are familiar with all of
the buildings steps and their proper order. Take your time; make sure you understand everything before
you do it and you will be rewarded with a great running tug!
This kit can be considered a toy. Although R/C boating is a fun and rewarding hobby, it can be
dangerous if not done with common sense and safety in mind. Just about anyone should be able to
build this kit, but care should be taken, especially when handling LiPo batteries.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in the use of this product, as
we have no control over the construction or end use of this product.
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Tools and supplies needed to build
Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper
Drill with 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 bits
Flat file
Round (1/8) file
FLAT Workbench
Flat work surface
Medium CA glue and accelerator
Good quality 30 minute epoxy
Epoxy finishing resin, polyurethane, lacquer or shellac
Spring clamps, paper clamps, c clamps, etc.
Razor blade or X-Acto knife
Masking tape
Waxed paper
Wood filler
Primer
Paint
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Additional items needed to
complete
550 size brushed motor (Zipp 504 )
Electronic Speed Control (Zipp 503 )
2 channel radio
Standard size servo (Zipp 5003 )
Ballast (BB’s or lead)
Battery- 6v 4.5A Gel Cell (2)
The following parts required are included in the optional Tugster Hardware Set
1/8 inch drive shaft
5/32 Brass shaft tube
1/8 to 1/8 coupler
1.5 inch 3 blade prop
Rudder pushrod
1/8 inch steering arm
Rudder
Shaft Oiler Set
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Let’s identify the parts so that we can easily find them when needed. Mark the parts with light pencil.
1/8 plywood parts:
Misc. parts
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Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or
damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly.
Glue
You can use any type of water proof glue you want. This includes Titebond, Gorilla glue, CA, epoxy, etc.
We used medium CA for the entire build.
Work Surface
We recommend that you use a straight, flat work surface.
Minimum size would be at least 24 by 12 inches.
Every critical component on this hull depends on a straight, flat surface.
Do whatever it takes to get this done.
A note about Ballast:
This tug requires ballast-If using a LiPo battery, you will need a lot of it.
We use BB’s and epoxy, but you can use anything heavy.
Some regulations require that this tug weigh 8 pounds with battery, and we recommend at least 6
pounds.
If you are having a contest (water polo), make sure that you set a minimum weight, as the lighter boats
will be faster.
In this manual, we show several different versions of our Tugster. They may not look exactly like this one,
but we do this to better illustrate a point.
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Hull
The hull sides are laminated from 2 pieces of
ply.
The inner piece has the slots for the bulkheads.
The inner piece is also shorter than the outer.
This allows you to glue the end pieces (marked
“outer”) into a strong joint.
We used medium CA glue for all assembly. You
can also use epoxy or any water proof glue.
Glue the inner hull to the outer hull, leaving 1/8
inch on each end.
Be sure to make a right and left side. The best
way to do this is to make mirror images of the
sides as shown.
Be sure that you make a right and left side.
Weight or clamp until cured.
Bulkheads
Test fit the bulkheads in place. They will only fit
in their respective slots.
Use the large square provided so that these are
90 degrees to the hull sides.
Bulkheads 1, 2 and 6 are the same. Glue these
in place on one of the hull sides.
Use the square and be sure all bulkheads are
square in 2 planes as shown. Get the bulkheads
square side to side as well as front to back.
Glue the rest of the bulkheads in place using the
square provided.
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Be sure that all bulkheads are fully seated and
again check that all are square to the hull side.
Turn your square 90 degrees and check that all
bulkheads are square to the bench.
Glue in doubler 3A in FRONT (motor side) of
BH 3.
Glue in doubler 4A in FRONT of BH 4.
Glue in the ends. These are marked Outer.
Put the hull upside down on your bench on wax
paper and glue all bulkheads to the other hull
side.
Glue in the fwd and aft bulkhead doublers.
These are marked “inner”.
Allow to cure.
Step back and admire your new tug. That was
no work at all. Just fun…
Let’s get ready to put the bottom in place.
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Bottom
The hull bottom is 2 sheets of 1/16 plywood,
installed cross grain.
The aft bottom is longer and they both meet at
BH3.
You can wet the aft bottom if you want (outside
only) but you don’t have to.
Sand the hull bottom so that no bulkheads are
sticking up and the ply has a smooth surface to
attach to.
Sand the front bulkhead so that the angle
matches the hull side.
Glue the aft sheet in place, starting halfway
across bulkhead 3 and moving all the way back.
Note that the bottom sheets are larger than
required, and will be sanded later.
Use clamps, rubber bands, your wife, weights,
tape or whatever you need to hold the aft
bottom on complete contact with the hull.
Double check that the aft bottom only covers
half of bulkhead 3 and that you have a little
overhang all around.
Allow to cure.
Glue the fwd bottom the same way, butting it up
against the aft sheet at bulkhead 3. Leave an
overhang all around and allow to cure.
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When cured, sand the bottom all around. You
may round the corners slightly, but not much.
This is really starting to look like something now!
Seal the bottoms of the battery trays.
When cured, glue in place so that the front of
the tray is nearly flush with the front of bulkhead
3.
Glue the tray sides in place.
Take this time to seal the inside of the hull with
2 coats of sealer. This can be epoxy, lacquer,
polyurethane, shellac or just about any oil based
paint or sealer.
Also seal the radio tray. DO NOT GLUE IN
PLACE YET.
Let’s get the stuff put in to make her go!
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