Aeronaut Rambotator User manual

Order No. 3048/00

This model is not a toy. If a young

person under 14 years is to build and

operate it, a responsible adult must

supervise the activity.

Introduction:

The model should be assembled following the sequence of the part numbers. These instructions are arranged by

stages in the correct order.

You may need to use a thin modelling knife to release the laser-cut parts from the sheets by cutting through on the

reverse side. The dark edges of the laser-cut parts should also be rubbed off using abrasive paper or a sanding pad

in order to obtain sound glued joints.

Check that all components fit accurately before reaching for the glue, and carry out any minor trimming required.

Allow all glued joints to dry out fully before starting the next stage of construction. We recommend a fast-setting

waterproof white glue for all joints.

We recommend that you apply a coat of sanding sealer (Order No. 7666/02) to all the wooden components and

sand the surfaces smooth before painting them.

We recommend our aero-pick

modelling pins, Order No. 7855/02, to

hold parts together when building the

model.

Tip: the laser-cut sheets include a large quantity of excess

material which is not required for building the model. It is a

good idea to place this material to one side, as it can be

used later to make handles, latches, fuel filler stubs and

similar, which help to give your model a livelier

appearance.

RC functions Rudder

Forward / reverse

Optional Lighting system

Specification

Length 455 mm

Beam 200 mm

Overall height 395 mm

RC Min. two channels

Motor Race 600 (7124/21)

Servo Standard

Battery 6 V lead-acid, 7.2 V NiXX

or 7.4 V LiXX

17 mm

22 mm

Glue the deck beams (1) to the deck

reinforcement (2).

Glue the hull sides (3) to the

deck reinforcement.

Glue all the hull bottom beams (1) in

place as shown.

Check that all the parts are at right-

angles to each other before leaving the

glue to set hard.

Caution:

The slots for the servo plate are

located 22 mm below deck level.

Glue the corner fillets (5 + 6) in place.

Glue the transom (4) and the bow plate (8) to the corner

fillets (5 + 6) and the hull sides (3).

Sand the front edge of the hull bottom (7) to a chamfer so that it fits in the

angle between the bow plate (8) and the bottom beam (1) as shown. Starting

at the bow (8), glue the hull bottom (7) to the hull sides and the bottom

beams. Round off the edges of the hull sides with abrasive paper.

13 12

15 16

17 18

18.1

18.2

Use the shaft coupling to connect the propeller shaft to the motor shaft.

Attach your preferred connectors to the power wires, then solder the

wires and capacitors to the motor terminals. Screw the motor plate (11)

to the motor.

Glue the wedge (10) to the underside of the hull bottom (7). Fit the prepared motor assembly through the slot in the

hull bottom (7) from the inside, then fit the shaft support (9) through the bottom (7) from the outside, sliding it into

the slot in the motor mount (11). You may need to trim the shaft opening slightly.

Caution: check that the motor and shaft rotate freely and smoothly, and make any adjustments required to the

openings in the hull bottom and the bottom edge of the motor mount.

Glue the servo mount (14 + 15) to the hull

bottom and the transom. Lightly sand the

joint surfaces of the rudder bush (16) to

provide a key for the glue, then insert the

bush through the holes in the hull bottom (7)

and the servo mount (14). Leave about 1

mm of the bush protruding on the underside

to allow a fillet of resin to be applied, and

glue it in place permanently. It is also

possible to apply glue from above through

the annular openings in the servo mount

(14).

Roughen one end of the rudder shaft (17) over a length of 40 mm,

and glue parts (18, 18.1 + 18.2) to the shaft using two-pack

adhesive. Sand the rudder to a streamlined profile when the glue

has set hard.

Glue three strips of adhesive tape to the outside edges of the top face

of the deck (22), overlapping all round as shown. Lay the deck on a flat

surface with the adhesive tape on the underside, and glue the three

rubbing strakes (83 + 84) to the edges. The top surface of the deck

should be completely flat, with the strakes projecting on the underside

by 1 mm, forming a shoulder for the glued joints. Round off the corners

of the rubbing strakes.

Glue the coaming components (25 + 26) which form the

wheelhouse base to the inside edges of the doubler (21);

repeat the procedure with the hatch coaming (23 + 24) and

the hatch doubler (20).

Caution: the hatch coaming is designed to be a very tight fit,

as it has to support the superstructure. It is a good idea to

sand the top of the coaming to a slight taper once the glue

has set hard.

Insert the prepared assemblies through the deck from the underside, and glue the

doublers in place over their full area.

The two bollards (85) can now be glued to the deck, applying adhesive to the

underside; the bollards should project through the deck by about 4 - 5 mm.

Reinforce the joints with a fillet of glue round each one on the underside, as this

area is subject to severe stress during towing operations.

Now glue the three remaining deck beams (1) in the notches in the hull.

At this stage the whole of the hull and deck should be given two coats of sanding sealer.

Install the motor in the hull, and cover it to protect it from soiling.

The deck can now be attached to the hull: apply plenty of glue to all the joint surfaces of the hull and deck beams,

and place the deck in position. Fix the parts together temporarily using strips of adhesive tape. Turn the hull over

and leave it inverted until the glue has set hard; you will need to use packing pieces to provide clearance for the

bollards.

When the glue is dry, give the outside of the hull two or three coats of sanding sealer, rubbing down between coats.

30.2

30.1

Assemble the rear hatch components (27, 28, 29)

and glue the joints.

Assemble the parts of the engine room (30, 31,

32, 30.1) and glue the joints, taking care to

position the roof (32) correctly; note the location

of the holes (see arrows).

Remove any rough edges from the inside edges

of the engine room side panels (30, 31), as this

guarantees a firm seating, and makes it easier to

fit and remove the whole wheelhouse. Glue the

portholes (88) in place as shown.

Prime and paint this assembly.

Bulwark

Insert the bulwark stanchions (33) in the slots in the deck, but do not glue them. Glue the stern bulwark 35 to the

bulwark stanchions. Glue the side bulwarks (34) to part (35) at the stern as well as to the side stanchions (33). Sand

the corner fillets to fit, and glue them in place as shown. When the glue is dry, sand the corners of the bulwark to a

rounded shape. Finally glue the handrail on top.

The bulwark can now be painted.

45.1

43.1

42 42

49R

50L

90 57

Assemble the return pulleys as shown in the picture.

Allow the glue to dry and paint them before gluing

them in the holes in the deck.

Assemble the dolphin posts as shown

in the picture, then prime and paint

the surfaces before gluing them in the

slots in the deck.

Assemble the wheelhouse side walls (48 -

51) and the window (52) around the

wheelhouse floor (47), installing the

instrument board (53) at the same time.

Prime and paint this assembly.

Assemble the instruments as shown in the drawing, paint them,

and install them once the wheelhouse has been painted.

After painting the wheelhouse, glue the door in place; the door

hinges can be cut from lengths of brass rod. Trim the roof

reinforcement (59) to fit, but do not glue it in place.

Glue the side fairings (61 - 63) round the roof (60), and glue the

reinforcement (59) to the underside of the roof.

Assemble the navigation lamp brackets

from parts 64 and 65; they should be

glued together before they are fixed to

the roof. Note that the lamp brackets are

handed (different right and left).

Paint the roof at this stage: note that the

inside of the lamp brackets should be

black.

Assemble the lamps from parts (76 - 78),

and glue them to the lamp brackets (64

+ 65).

71+67

124

248

Thread the railing stanchions (79) onto the lower rails (80) and the handrail

(81), bending all three rails at the same time. Insert the railing stanchions in

the holes in the engine room roof. Position the railing components carefully

before gluing the rails to the stanchions.

Allow these assemblies to dry before removing and painting them

The mast (72)

If you wish to fit working lights, drill 2 mm Ø holes in the mast below the lamp brackets for

the wires to pass through.

Glue the platform supports (75) and the lamp platforms (74) to the mast at the locations

shown in the illustration.

The mast can now be painted.

Paint the upper and lower parts of the lamps (76 + 77) black.

When the paint is dry, glue the clear lenses (78) between them.

When the mast is complete, slip it through the holes in the wheelhouse roof, the floor and

the engine room deck, and secure it by fitting the collet (73) at the bottom.

The wheelhouse as a whole is prevented from rotating by the railings, and is held in position

by the mast collet. If you wish, the wheelhouse can be secured with a small woodscrew

fitted from the underside.

All the windows (95) can now be

installed, and the screen wiper (94)

fitted.

16 27

29 19

Install the steering servo. Push a piece of silicone tubing (82)

about 10 mm long onto the rudder bush (16) where it projects

at the top.

Push a piece of silicone tubing

(82) about 10 mm long onto the

rudder shaft (17).

Fit the propeller (not included in the kit) on the propeller shaft, and secure it by tightening the locknut. Slip the rudder

into the rudder bush (16), carefully pushing the shaft support (9) to one side to allow this. Fit the tiller (19) on the top

end of the rudder shaft. Push the parts together so that they are under light tension, then tighten the screw which

fixes the tiller (19) to the shaft. This holds the rudder in the correct position and at the same time provides a

waterproof seal.

Bend the rudder pushrod (93) to

shape and connect it to the servo

output arm and the tiller. Push the

plastic keepers (92) onto the pushrod

(93) to hold it in place.

The receiver and speed controller can be fixed to the inside of the hull using Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape. The

position of the battery varies according to the type of use you envisage for the boat.

Stick the strip of Velcro tape to the hull floor forward of the motor to secure the battery.

If you wish to use the model as a pusher (springer) tug, you will need to add ballast to trim the vessel correctly.

Ensure that the shaft tube is always lubricated with oil or grease.

Remove the battery from the model when it is not in use.

Have fun running your model!

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