Jacuzzi Gatsby Operating instructions

The Mechanical Operation and Repair of

Gatsby, Blue Ridge, and Swift River

Spas built by Jacuzzi



ONLY for the Following ELECTRONIC Spas Made 1999-2002 with this Topside:

(does not Apply to ANY Model using other topsides)

Published by GatsbySpaParts.com

2010

Disclaimer

Every effort has been made to make this manual understandable and applicable.

If you have doubts or little experience with electrical appliances, it’s best to leave

electrical work to licensed electricians. Care and proper electrical procedures

must be adhered to whenever working with electricity and especially is true with

spas since you are dealing with electrical current that can harm or kill you or

those near or in the spa.

As a Rule of Thumb: ALWAYS TURN THE SPA’S MAIN POWER OFF

UNLESS REQUIRED TO PERFORM A TEST. WHEN YOU DO HAVE POWER

ON BE CAREFUL AND USE PROPER ELECTRICAL PROTECTION AND

PROCEDURES.

Although this booklet should be able to guide you through most repairs and even

diagnosing the problem, www.gatsbyspaparts.com offers an “Ask the Expert” free

of charge where you can write me and be more specific for your spa and your

particular problem.

Every effort has been made to be accurate and complete but note we cannot

guarantee specific accuracy.

Throughout this manual reference to part numbers are Jacuzzi/Gatsby Spa

numbers, . If the part number prefix is “CC” the part is our own number and

available on our website. Also note, normally, numbers on the part are not

Jacuzzi stocking numbers but numbers used by the original manufacturer

including mold number. We have no cross reference from these numbers.

Table of Contents

Words and Their Meaning.

Introduction

Overview

Section One: Equipment and Parts

Chapter One: Pumps and Motors

Chapter Two:Heaters

Chapter Three: Control System

Chapter Four: Air Blowers

Chapter Five: Pressure Switch: Flow Switch

Chapter Six: Sensors

Chapter Seven: Topside Control

Chapter Eight: Ozonators

Chapter Nine: Mood Lights

Chapter Ten: Plumbing

Chapter Eleven: Spa Jets

Section Two: Troubleshooting

I. Trips GFCI

II. Doesn’t Heat

III. Motor Hums or Doesn’t Work

IV. Pump Leaks

V. Error Codes Defined and Fix

VI. Models

Words and Their Meaning.

“Spa”; typically means same as hot tub. Often get confused with indoor jetted

bath. But spas normally are outside, require heating, and are operationally 24/7.

“Pump”; Generally only applies to “wetend” or part that moves the water.

Attaches to “motor”.

“Motor”; part that when electrical current is applied it will spin. Normal low speed

is 1725 rpm and 3450 for high. Can be one or two speeds. Some single speed

motors are dual voltage. On dual voltage motors usually the motor comes wired

for high or 240vac. But always confirm from diagram on motor’s label which you

motor is. Usually apply high voltage to a low voltage motor will permanently harm

it. Usually applying low voltage to a high voltage motor will if corrected quickly,

not permanently harm it.

“Jet”; The part of the plumbing that secures the piping to the spa shell and injects

water/air into the spa.

“Topside”; the control pad on the outside of the spa that you operate the spa from

including temperature change and jet action.

“Control Box” or “Command Center”; the box underneath that includes the pc

board and cables. Basically the “brains” of the spa.

“Power”; spas are designed for either 110-130vac or 220-240vac. There is a

certain tolerance of voltage but normally the range should be the above. Outside

the range can harm equipment include the control box and pump motors. Some

spas come designed to operate on either 115v or 230v. It this case, the difference

is efficiency of the spas heater and when it can come on. When the spa is

operated on 115v, the heater uses about 1/3 of its ability to heat. Therefore 1-2

heating per hour is normal. When the same heater has 230v applied to it, the spa

will heat 5-6 degrees per hour. On most system, when the jet pump is on high

and the spa is operating on 115v, the heater turns off. When the spa is operated

on 230v, the heater will remain on. To gain this feature usually requires an

adjustment on the board.

Introduction

I started servicing Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath spas in 1995. I first started by working

for a friend who was an Authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath.

Shortly after that I purchased the spa repair business from him and became the

owner.

From that date to 2001 we were the authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Products in the Denver and Eastern Colorado area. During that time

we were rated in the top 10 service companies in the United States for customer

service. We were the only Service Company to receive that award every time it

was offered during those years. When Jacuzzi, Inc reorganized their company in

2001, they moved their spa production to their Sundance plant. We continue to

and are still servicing Jacuzzi Hot Tubs as a service center.

It just happened that when I started working and servicing spas for Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Bath was also the time the industry was switching to electronic

controlled spas. Therefore I experienced the changes that have occurred during

this time and continue to work in the field, I have experienced a wide spectrum of

problems and their solution. I would like to say I have seen it all but that always

proves untrue.

I have tried to make this manual simple but comprehensive; quite a challenge. To

do so I try first to explain what and how the part works. Then how to replace or

repair the part.

This manual also includes common failures and error codes and their solution.

In the Troubleshooting Section I have found 99% of the problems with a spa are

routine if you follow a systematic approach. Sometimes I make this approach too

obvious but for the sake of the weekend warrior, I made it so.

If you have questions not specifically addressed in this manual, you can contact

me at bbouman@clearcreekspas.com. It’s the first email I check, usually every

business day. I will be happy to help all I can.

Overview

Who is Gatsby?

Gatsby was a manufacturer of hot tubs in Plant City, Florida. For years they built

entry level spas sold throughout the SE states. They produced a number of spa

models under brand names like Gatsby, Blue Ridge, Swift River, and Imperial

Spas. In most cases, one model design will come under one or more of those

labels.

Jacuzzi bought Gatsby spas and began moving their entry level production to

Florida and have Gatsby division build all their entry level spas. Soon after that,

Jacuzzi closed down production at that plant and discontinued all lines built by

that division.

When Jacuzzi bought Gatsby the support of earlier production spas had already

been discontinued. Jacuzzi service companies received no technical information

or parts for servicing those earlier, non-electronic spas. Unfortunately for spa

owners of earlier non electronic models parts and support are not available.

Jacuzzi recommendation to those owners with problems with their older control

system is to replace their older non-electronic spas with newer electronic

systems. We carry both those systems and more economical fully electronic

aftermarket retrokits for these spas. See our website under “Tutor” for more

information.

Therefore if your spa has a topside with a DIAL temp control and plunger like on/

off buttons, there is not support or supply for that system. Motors and heaters are

available but not your circ ump.

GENERAL; How Spa’s Work

Basically, spa operation is simple. The pump draws the water from the spa,

usually through a filter, then through the pump and pushes it through the heater

and back into the spa. Now add more jets, more pumps, an air blower, and

maybe a stereo. That’s today’s popular spa.

America’s lust for more jets has driven the need for more pumps to drive the jets.

To help keep the spa clean with less chemicals, manufactures have added a 24

hour circulation pump and Ozonator. For a few models you also have an air

blower that blows air bubbles up from the seats of the spa.

GATSBY Specific SPA DESIGN:

Most electronic spas built by Gatsby division have the following configuration:

a. Main electronic control box.

b. Separate canister heater.

c. Small 24hr circulation pump

d. One of two large jet pumps.

e. Jet pumps can be one or two speed.

Less common configuration is:

a. Main electronic control box with heater attached.

b. NO circulation pump.

c. One or two large jet pump.

d. #1 jet pump is two speed. Low speed also operates to heat and filter.

SPA SHELL

Spa shells are typically acrylic. A sheet of acrylic is heated and dropped into a

mold and vacuumed to form the shell. Then it’s flipped over and sprayed with a

fiberglass solution that gives it strength. Holes are drilled into the spa and jets

installed. Then the plumbing is finished and insulation is now sprayed. Finally the

equipment is installed. The construction of the spa is mostly performed with the

spa upside down. Finally the spa is flipped upright and final tests including water

testing is done.

The spa frame was made a wide variety of ways over the years but basically it

was on either a wood bracing, solid plywood base, or fiberglass base. Often the

spa shell has part of the frame molded into the actual spa shell or glued to it to

create strength.

Paneling

The paneling of spas has changed over the years. Initially redwood slates were

the common siding. In an attempt to economize the cost of panels, Gatsby built

panels with various stained wood. Some of the late production was synthetic

plastic panels or slats. These are becoming popular even though they can be as

costly as redwood or cedar. But they are able to withstand the elements with little

care.

Typically you should re-stain pine panels every year.

Newer spas with synthetic siding require little upkeep other than cleaning. I have

seen spas where the heat of the sun causes the panels to bow and lose shape. If

you see this happening, you might consider reinforcing the back of the panel with

a piece of wood or where you can and available, add a screw or two to center

areas that are bowing. You will need to locate a wood vertical post to screw the

panel against to create more support and avoid bowing.

Chapter ONE Pump & Motors

Overview:

There can be confusion; What’s a pump? What’s a motor? Are they the same?

The “pump” is considered by many to be the complete pump/motor and by

others only the end where the water passes through. The “wetend” is the more

common word for the end that moves the water. For the industry, “pump” and

“wetend” are the same. “Motor” is JUST the motor. “Pump/Motor Complete”

would be both already assembled. In most cases, “complete” does not mean with

a new cord.

I. Circulation Pump (see more later)

Most Gatsby built spas used either the less common 115v small circulation pump

or the more common 230v circulation pump. This pump runs 24/7. It avails the

homeowner with a system that keeps water clean by constant filtering.

Most common is full replacement of failed circulation pumps, not replacing

internal parts.

II. Jet Pump

Your spa will have one or two jet pumps. The pump motor can either by 115v or

230v. Also it can be one or two speed. Plus, to complicate, there are two pump

styles and a variety of pump horsepower. So how do you tell what you have?

First, your pump is either center or side discharge. 1.5hp pumps can be either

center or side. All others are side. Center discharge means the top discharge is

in the middle of the pump. Side discharge means your output of the pump is on

the side. Most pumps are side discharge but check.

Next is pump’s horsepower. As a rule of thumb, the horsepower rating must be

equal or less than the motor’s rating. If the pump is oversized for the motor, it

likely will shorten the life of the motor or cause it to continue to overheat and shut

off. You can oversize the motor but not the pump.

Jet pumps on Gatsby spas are basically a generic designed pump. The main

body or bracket mounts on the motor by the 4 bolts that hold the motor together

and pump to motor.

Next part of the pump is the mechanical seal. This seal is 2 pieces. One piece

goes into the seat cup of the pump housing. The other slides on the impellor’s

shaft. When the impellor tightens to the motor shaft, the two halves press

outward and seal the pump.

The impellor attaches to the motor shaft. They simply screw together with

standard clockwise screw. When the impellor rotates it is what moves the water.

A large oring seals the front of the pump (volute) when the bolts tighten them

together.

Last part is the volute or front of the pump. It has a seat the impellor sits into

when the bolts are tighten.

Simply explained, when the impellor turns it compresses the water and the

compressed water escapes out of the top of the pump.

Commonly, the “motor” is ONLY the motor. Most common are either AO Smith or

Emerson motors although other companies make motors like GE. Spa motors

are either 115vac or 230vac although some can be either. If either, you can “field

wire” the motor to match the application you are installing. Likely the motor came

wired for 230v but you can field wire it down to 115v. The way to tell if your motor

is dual voltage is on the label of the motor. It will show a High and a Low wiring

diagram. This is relation to volts, not speed. Typically you will check the label to

see what voltage the motor is wired for. If its wired for the wrong voltage, you

follow the motor’s diagram.. But typically, it’s either 115v or 230v.

The key for motors is matching the horsepower (hp) of the motor to the pump.

You can have a motor oversized for a pump hp and be OK. It’s like having an

oversized motor for your car. But you cannot have a pump too large for the

motor. If you do, the motor will have a early failure. It’s like driving a large car with

an undersized motor. Best bet is to match.

Gatsby used one and two speed 115v motors and one and two speed 230v

This manual suits for next models

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