UnionSpecial 39500MK Instruction sheet

F

INES

T

QUALITY

ST

YL

E

395

00M

K

CATALOG

No.

103MK

®

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

LEWIS

•

COLUMBIA

MACHINES

CLA

SS

39500

HI-STYLED

HIGH

S

PEED

TWO

NEEDLE

FOUR

THREAD

THUMBSCREW

ADJU

S

TED

DIFFERENTIAL

FEED

MACHINES

C

HI

CAGO

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Catalog

No.

103

MK

(Supplement

to

Catalog

No.

103

FS)

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

ADJUSTING

AND

OPERATING

LIST

OF

PARTS

CLASS

3

9500

Style

39500

MK

First

Edition

Copyright

1971

by

Union

Special

Machine

Co.

Rights

Reserved

in

All

Countries

MACHINE COMPANY

INDUSTRIAL

SEWING

MACHINES

CHICAGO

Printed

in

U.S.

A.

2

October,

1971

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MACffiNE

Each

Union

Special

machine

is

identified

by

a

Style

number

on

a

name

plate

on

the

machine.

Style

numbers

are

classified

as

standard

and

special.

Standard

Style

numbers

have

one

or

more

letters

suffixed,

but

never

contain

the

letter

"Z".

Example:

"Style

39500

MK".

Special

Style

numbers

contain

the

letter

"Z".

When

only

minor

changes

are

made

in

a

standard

machine,

a

"Z"

is

suffixed

to

the

standard

Style

number.

Example:

"Style

39500

MKZ".

Styles

of

machines

similar

in

construction

are

grouped

under

a

Class

number

which

differs

from

the

Style

number

in

that

it

contains

no

letters.

Example:

"Class

39500

".

APPLICATION

OF

CATALOG

This

catalog

is

a

supplement

to

Catalog

No. 103

FS

and

should

be

used

in

con-

junction

therewith.

Only

those

parts

used

on

Style

39500

MK,

but

not

on

Style

39500

GD

are

illustrated

and

listed

at

the

back

of

this

catalog.

On

the

page

opposite

the

illustration

will

be

found

a

listing

of

the

parts,

with

their

part

numbers,

des

cript-

ion

and

the

number

of

pieces

required.

Numbers

in

the

first

column

are

reference

numbers

only,

and

merely

indicate

the

position

of

that

part

in

the

illustration.

Reference

numbers

should

never

be

used

in

ordering

parts.

Always

use

the

part

number

listed

in

the

second

column.

This

catalog

applies

specifically

to

the

standard

Style

of

machine

as

listed

herein.

It

can

also

be

applied

with

discretion

to

some

Special

Styles

of

machines

in

Class

39500.

References

to

directions,

such

as

right,

left,

front,

back,

etc.,

are

given

from

the

operator's

position

while

seated

at

the

machine.

Operating

direction

of

handwheel

is

away

from

operator.

STYLE

OF

MACHINE

Hi-Styled

High

Speed,

Two

Curved

Blade

Needles,

Two

Loopers,

Four

Thread

Overseaming

Machines,

Upper

Looper

Thread

is

Caught

by

Both

Needles.

Differen-

tial

Feed,

Trimming

Mechanism

with

Spring

Pressed

Lower

Knife,

Automatic

Lubricating

System.

39500

MK

Medium

to

heavy

duty

machine

for

seaming

operations

on

coat

linings,

pockets,

bathing

suits,

house

dresses,

children's

wear,

ladies

undergarments,

and

similar

garments

of

medium

to

heavy

weight

woven

and

knitted

materials

of

cotton,

wool,

silk

and

synthetics.

Thumbscrew

adjustable

feed

which

allows

either

reverse

or

forward

differential

feeding.

Seam

specification

514-SSa-1.

Standard

seam

width

approximately

17/64

inch

from

left

needle.

Stitch

range

6-20

per

inch.

Cam

ad

jus

ted

main

and

differential

feeds.

Maximum

recommended

speed

6000

R.

P.

M.

OILING

CAUTION!

Oil

was

drained

from

machine

when

shipped,

so

reservoir

must

be

filled

before

beginning

to

operate.

Oil

capacity

of

Class

39500

is

six

ounces.

A

straight

mineral

oil

of

a

Saybolt

viscosity

of

90

to

125

seconds

at

100°

Fahrenheit

should

be

used.

3

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

OILING

(Continued)

Machine

is

filled

with

oil

at

spring

cap

in

top

cover.

Oil

level

is

checked

at

sight

gauge

on

front

of

machine.

Red

bulb

on

oil

levelindicator

should

show

between

gauge

lines

when

machine

is

stationary.

Machine

is

automatically

lubricated.

No

oiling

is

necessary,

other

than

keeping

main

reservoir

filled.

Check

oil

daily

before

morning

start;

add

oil

as

required.

The

oil

drain

plug

screw

is

located

at

back

of

machine

near

bottom

edge

of

base.

It

is

a

magnetic

screw

designed

to

accumulate

possible

foreign

materials

which

may

have

entered

the

crank

case.

It

should

be

removed

and

cleaned

periodically.

NEEDLES

Each

Union

Special

needle

has

both

type

and

size

number.

The

type

number

denotes

the

kind

of

shank,

point,

length,

g

roove,

finish

and

other

details.

The

size

number,

stamped

on

the

needle

shank,

denotes

largest

diameter

of

blade,

measured

in

thousandths

of

an

inch,

midway

between

shank

and

eye.

Collectively,

type

and

size

number

represent

the

complete

symbol

which

is

given

on

the

label

of

all

needles

packaged

and

sold

by

Union

Special.

Class

39500

machine

s

use

a

curved

blade

needle.

The

standard

recommended

needle

for

Style

39500

MK

is

Type

154

GAS.

Below

is

the

description

and

sizes

avail-

able

of

the

recommended

needle.

Type

No.

154

GAS

D

es

cr

i

pt

i

on

and

Sizes

Round

shank,

round

point,

curved

blade,

standard

len

g

th,

si

ngle

gr

oove,

struck

groove,

spotted,

chromium

plated

and

is

available

in

s

iz

es

022,

025,

027, 029,

032,

036, 040,

044,

049,

054, 060.

To

have

needle

orders

promptly

and

accurately

filled,

an

empty

pac

kage

, a

sample

needle,

or

the

type

and

si

ze

numbe

r

should

be

forwarde

d. U

se

d

es

c

ri

pt

i

on

label.

A

complete

orde

r

would

r e

ad:

"

1000

Needles,

Type

154 GAS, Si ze

036".

Selection

of

prope

r

needle

s i

ze

is de

termined

by

s i

ze

of

thr

ea

d us ed.

Thread

should

pass

freely

through

needle

ey

e

in

orde

r

to

produce

a

goo

d

st

i

tch

formation.

Success

in

the

operation

of

Union

S

pe

ci

al

ma

ch

in

es

can

be

secur

ed

only

by

u

se

of

needles

packaged

under

our

bran

d na

me,

~

,

which

is

bac

ke

d

by

a r e -

putation

for

producing

highest

quality

nee

dl

es

in

m ate

ri

als a

nd

wor

km

ans

hip

for

more

than

three-qu

a

rters

of a

century.

4

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

I!]Tension

Nut

--

.....

_

..

_

...

::

.,"'

OTension

Discs

::..

l3ll

Tension

Post

Slot.. ',,_

nTension

Disc

Felt··

..

[i

Tension

Thr

ead

liJ

Front

Thr

ead Guide

fm

Upper

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

~~Auxiliary

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

I3Lower

Looper

Thread

Eyelet

mFabric

Guard

Bracket

DFrame

Looper

Thread

Guide

m

Presser

Arm

Fig.

1

~--

5

Top

Cover

.....-::~ji\1~"'11:.\!1

Needle

Thread

Eyelet

.

...

............

Upper

Looper

Thread

Tube As

sembly

~Upper

Looper

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CHANGING

NEEDLES

Release

pressure

on

presser

foot

by

turning

presser

foot

release

bushing

(AG,

Fig.

1)

and

swing

presser

arm

(U)

out

of

position.

Turn

handwheel

in

operating

direction

until

needles

are

at

their

lowest

point

of

travel.

Using

hexagonal

socket

wrench

No.

21388

AU,

furnished

with

machine,

loosen

needle

clamp

nut

about

1/4

turn.

Again

turn

handwheel

until

needles

are

at

high

position.

Withdraw

needles.

To

replace

needles,

leave

needle

holder

at

high

position

and

with

the

flats

to

the

left,

insert

needles

in

holder

until

they

rest

against

stop

pin.

Keeping

needles

in

this

position,

turn

handwheel

until

holder

is

again

at

its

low

point

of

travel;

then

tighten

nut.

Return

presser

arm

(U)

to

position;

re-lock

presser

foot

release

bush-

ing

(AG).

THREAD

STAND

After

thread

comes

from

cones

on

cone

support

(A,

Fig.

1),

the

needle

threads

are

threaded

through

the

back

bar

of

the

thread

eyelet

(B),

under

the

middle

bar

and

through

the

center

holes

of

the

front

bar.

The

looper

threads

come

from

the

cones,

through

holes

of

the

middle

bar

from

back

to

front

and

then

through

the

two

outside

holes

of

the

front

bar.

is

threaded

through

the

upper

holes

of

tension

thread

guide

(C)

front

to

back

and

then

through

the

lower

holes

from

back

to

front.

The

threads

continue

between

the

tension

discs

(J),

through

tensionpost

slot

(K)

in

tens-

ion

post

(G)

and

on

through

front

thread

guide

(M).

THREADING

Only

parts

involved

in

threading

are

shown

in

the

threading

diagram

(Fig.

1).

Parts

are

placed

in

their

relative

positions

for

clarity.

It

will

simplify

the

threading

of

these

machines

to

follow

the

recommended

se-

quence

of

threading

lower

looper

first,

upper

looper

second,

and

needles

third.

Before

beginning

to

thread,

swing

cloth

plate

open,

turn

handwheel

in

operating

direction

until

needles

(X)

are

in

high

position,

release

pressure

on

presser

foot

by

turning

presser

foot

release

bushing

(AG),

and

swing

presser

arm

(U)

out

of

posi-

tion.

Be

sure

threads,

as

they

come

from

the

tension

thread

guide

(C)

are

between

tension

discs

(J)

and

in

diagonal

slots

(K)

in

tension

posts

(G).

The

tension

posts

should

be

positioned

so

the

tension

post

slot

will

be

at

the

approximate

an:gle

for

the

different

threads

as

indicated

in

Fig.

1.

TO

THREAD

LOWER

LOOPER

Double

end

of

thread

and

lead

it

through

both

eyes

of

lower

looper

thread

eye-

let

(R,

Fig.

1)

from

right

to

left.

NOTE:

Thread

must

pass

in

front

of

looper

thread

pull-off

(AF).

Lead

thread

behind

fabric

guard

(S)

and

through

eyelet

hole

of

frame

looper

thread

guide

(T).

Turn

handwheel

in

operating

direction

until

heel

of

lower

looper

(V)

is

all

the

way

to

the

left;

then

thread

through

both

eyes

from

left

to

right.

Left

eye

of

lower

looper

can

be

threaded

easily

if

tweezers

are

in

left

hand.

TO

THREAD

UPPER

LOOPER

Turn

handwheel

until

point

of

upper

looper

(W)

is

all

the

way

left.

Lead

thread

through

auxiliary

looper

thread

eyelet

(P)

from

back

to

front,

then

through

both

eyes

of

upper

looper

thread

eyelet

(N)

from

left

to

right.

NOTE:

Thread

must

pass

in

front

of

looper

thread

pull-off

(AF).

After

pulling

up

upper

looper

thread

tube

assembly

(AA),

lead

thread

under

neck

of

top

cover

casting

and

down

through

thread

6

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

TO

THREAD

UPPER

LOOPER

(Continued)

tube

assembly

(AA).

Pull

thread

out

bottom

of

tube;

push

tube

down,

then

insert

thread

through

upper

looper

eye

from

front

to

back.

CAUTION!

Be

sure

upper

looper

thread

is

under

lower

looper

thread

when

passing

from

tube

assembly

to

upper

looper

eye.

TO

THREAD

NEEDLES

Turn

handwheel

in

operating

direction

until

needles

(X)

are

at

their

highest

position.

Insert

both

needle

threads

from

right

to

left,

through

BOTH

eyes

of

needle

thread

eyelet

(AD),

under

neck

of

top

cover

casting

and

down

through

holes

in

top

cover

needle

thread

eyelet

(AC).

The

right

needle

thread

should

be

threaded

in

the

right

hole

and

the

left

needle

thread

through

the

left

hole

of

the

top

cover

needle

thread

eyelet.

Thread

needles

from

the

front.

THREAD

TENSION

The

amount

of

tension

on

needle

and

looper

threads

is

regulated

by

tension

nuts

(D,

Fig.

1).

Tension

on

threads

should

be

only

enough

to

secure

proper

stitch

for-

mation.

PRESSER

FOOT

PRESSURE

Sufficient

presser

foot

pressure

to

feed

work

uniformly

should

be

maintained.

Should

it

be

necessary

to

increase

or

decrease

amount

of

pressure

on

presser

foot,

loosen

lock

nut

(A,

Fig.

2)

and

turn

adjusting

screw

(B).

Adjusting

screw

has

aright

hand

thread

so

tightening

increases

pres-

sure,

loosening

decreases

pressure.

When

pressure

adjust-

ing

screw

(B)

has

been

properly

set,

tighten

lock

nut

(A).

With

presser

foot

resting

on

throat

plate,

position

locking

nut

(C)

sothat

its

undersurface

is

approximately

1/32

inch

to

1/16

inch

from

the

top

surface

of

adjusting

screw

(B).

Set

cap

(D)

against

locking

nut

(C).

FEED

ECCENTRICS

Fig.

2

Feed

eccentrics

used

in

machine

Style

39500

MK

have

been

selected

to

produce

approximately

12

stitches

per

inch.

It

will

be

noted

that

thepart

number

of

the

main

feed

eccentric

is

No.

39540

B-12,

while

the

part

number

of

the

differential

feed

eccentric

is

No.

39540

B-4

.

Minor

numbers

of

the

part

symbol

indicate

approximate-

ly

the

number

of

stitches

obtainable

when

using

that

eccentric.

Unless

otherwise

specified,

machines

will

be

shipped

with

the

above

combination

of

eccentrics.

Generally

speaking,

the

main

(right

hand)

feed

eccentric

determines

the

number

of

stitches

produced;

the

differential

(left

hand)

feed

eccentric

is

selected

so

as

to

give

the

proper

differential.

Following

stitch

number

feed

eccentrics

are

available

under

No.

39540

B-4,

-5,

-6, -7,

-8,

-9,

-10, -11,

-12, -13, -14,

-15,

-16, -18,

-20,

-22,

-24, -26,

-28,

-30,

-32,

-34,

-36, -40, -50, -60,

-70,

-100.

Only

two

eccentrics

are

supplied

with

each

machine.

Additional

eccentrics

may

be

ordered

separately.

To

order,

use

No.

39540

B

with

a

minor

number

suffixed

to

indicate

number

of

stitches

desir

ed.

Example:

"39540

B-12

".

7

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

ASSEMBLING

AND

ADJUSTING

SEWING

PARTS

Before

assembling

and

adjusting

sewing

parts,

remove

cloth

plate,

fabric

guard,

chip

guard,

upper

knife

assembly,

lower

knife

holder

assembly.

Then,

follow

this

suggested

sequence:

CLOTH

PLATE

REMOVAL

AND

ASSEMBLY

CAUTION:

When

removing

the

cloth

plate

(A,

Fig.

3)

loosen

the

cloth

plate

stud

locking

screw

(B)

and

lift

up

cloth

plate

with

the

cloth

plate

stud

(C)

and

cloth

plate

screw

(D),

assembled.

In

assembly,

the

cloth

plate

screw

and

the

cloth

plate

stud

are

tightened

to

the

point

of

removing

all

play

and

yet

turn

in

cloth

plate.

The

cloth

plate

is

then

assembled

to

the

machine

with

the

flat

and

"V"

slot

ofthe

cloth

plate

stud

(C)

towards

the

rear.

Stud

locking

screw

(B)

is

tightened

secure-

ly

which

collapses

the

body

of

the

stud

to

the

screw

(D)

so

that

only

the

cloth

plate

will

turn

when

opening

or

closing.

SETTING

THE

NEEDLE

With

throat

plate

assembled

in

position,

needles

should

center

in

the

front

end

of

needle

slots.

When

needles

are

at

high

position,

needle

points

should

be

set

31/64

inch

above

Fig.

3

throat

plate

(Fig.

4).

To

align

or

set

the

height

above

the

throat

plate,

move

needle

driving

arm

(A,

Fig.

4)

by

loosen-

i

ng

clamp

screw

(B).

Remove

throat

plate.

after

needle

has

been

set

properly

and

clamp

screw

(B)

has

been

tightened.

Fig.

4

If

needle

thread

cam

pull-

off

(A,

Fig.

5)

overlaps

looper

thread

pull-off

(B).

separate

by

moving

looper

thread

pull-off

to

the

back.

When

re-tightening

looper

pull-off

screw,

be

sure

to

take

up

end

play

in

needle

driving

arm.

At

th

is

point.

insert

lower

looper

(A,

Fig.

6)

into

bar

(B).

With

the

lower

looper

at

the

left

end

of

its

stroke,

set

looper

point

1/

16

inch

from

center

of

left

needle

(Fig.

6),

using

loop-

Fi

g. 5

er

gauge

No.

21225-1/16.

Do

not

have

lower

looper

de

flectin

g n

ee

dl

e.

Tigh

ten

nut

(C).

Now

assemble

differential

(front)

feed

dog.

8

I / •

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

SETTING

THE

REAR

NEEDLE

GUARD

Set

rear

needle

guard

(A,

Fig.

7)

as

high

as

pos-

sible,

without

interfering

with

either

lower

looper

or

movement

of

lower

knife

holder,

but

still

in

position

to

deflect

needles

forward

.

002-.

004

inch.

Screw

(B)

is

used

to

set

rear

needle

guard.

Make

sure

there

is

no

interference

between

rear

needle

guard

and

lower

looper.

SETTING

THE

LOWER

LOOPER

Now.

finish

lower

looper

adjustment.

As

lower

Fig.

6

looper

moves

to

the

right,

its

point

should

be

set

into

the

scarf

of

the

left

needle

(A.

Fig.

8)

until

the

needles

spring

forward

from

rear

guard

surface

another

.

002-.

004

inch.

Fig.

7

SETTING

THE

FRONT

NEEDLE

GUARD

Assemble

front

needle

guard

(C.

Fig.

7).

When

lower

looper

is

springing

needles

off

rear

needle

guard,

set

front

needle

guard

as

close

as

possible

to

needles

without

touching.

Screw

(D)

is

used

to

adjust

and

set

front

needle

guard.

After

this

setting,

make

sure

there

is

no

interference

between

needle

guards

and

differential

feed

dog.

SETTING

THE

UPPER

LOOPER

Fig.

8

Insert

upper

looper

(A,

Fig.

9)

in

its

holder.

Screw

(B)

holds

.

upper

looper

in

its

holder.

and

permits

it

to

be

pushed

in

or

out

or

turned

around

its

shank.

Insert

upper

looper

holder

into

upper

looper

shaft,

if

it

is

not

already

in

place.

Screw

(C)

on

clamp

holds

the

upper

looper

holder

in

the

shaft.

Locate

upper

looper

in

its

holder

so

that

the

shank

extends

1

/8

inch

beyond

holder.

When

the

upper

looper

is

at

the

right

end

of

its

stroke,

upper

looper

holder

should

be

set

to

position

upper

looper

shank

s

li

g

htly

back

of

vertical

(F

i

g.

9).

Fig.

9

By

adjusting

looper

hold

er

in

or

out

of

upper

looper

shaft

and

by

turning

the

looper

around

it

s s

hank.

s e t

upper

looper

point

to

cross

lower

looper

to

the

left

of

the

lower

looper

eye

w

it

h .

002

to

.

004

clearance

(Fi

g.

10).

Next,

turn

the

handwheel

until

upp

er

looper

is

at

the

left

end

of

it

s

tr

a

vel.

Ch

e

ck

dimensions

of

upper

looper

po

i

nt

with

respect

to

the

left

needle

and

throat

pl

ate

(Fig.

11).

If

resettin

g

is

nece

ssary,

do

it

by

moving

the

upper

looper

holder

(A, Fig.

11).

Figure

11

represents

the

correct

di -

mensional

setting.

9

F

ig.

10

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

SETTING

THE

UPPER

LOOPER

(Continued)

Dimension

39/64

inch

is

increased

by

turning

upper

looper

holder

counterclockwise

looking

from

left

end

of

machine.

Di-

mension

3/16

inch

is

increased

bypulling

upper

looper

holder

to

t

he

left,

out

of

the

upper

looper

shaft.

After

these

changes

are

made,

it

may

be

necessary

to

t

urn

the

upper

looper

around

its

shank

slightly

to

maintain

the

condition

shown

in

Fig.

10.

Check

setting

to

a

void

interference

between

upper

looper

and

needle

on

needle

downstroke.

If

needle

rubs

t

he

back

of

upper

looper,

pull

looper

out

of

its

holder

slightly

and

rotate

looper

a

short

distance

counterclockwise,

looking

from

left

end

of

machine.

Reset

to

maintain

dimensions

of

Figs.

10

and

11.

SETTING

THE

FEED

DOGS

Assemble

the

main

and

differential

feed

dogs

(A,

B,

F ig.

12).

Fig·

11

Main

and

differential

feed

dogs

should

be

leveled

with

respect

to

the

throat

plate

by

rotating

feed

tilting

adjusting

(C).

This

raises

or

lowers

the

back

end

of

the

feed

bar.

The

feed

dogs

should

be

set

level

at

the

time

the

teeth

first

appear

above

the

throat

plate.

Screw

(D)

locks

feed

tilting

adjusting

in

place.

With

the

feed

dogs

at

their

highest

point

of

travel,

the

top

of

the

teeth

on

the

main

and

differential

feed

dogs

(A,

B)

should

be

the

depth

of

a

full

tooth

above

the

throat

plate.

The

chaining

feed

dog

is

made

as

an

inte-

gral

part

of

the

main

feed

dog.

SETTING

THE

LOWER

KNIFE

Fig.

12

Fig.

13

Replace

lower

knife

holder

assembly.

Lower

k

nife

(A,

Fig.

13)

should

be

set

with

cutting

edge

flus

h

with

throat

plate

surface.

Adjustments

are

made

with

hexa-

gonal

head

screw

which

holds

lower

knife.

Lower

knife

is

spring

pressed

against

upper

knife,

so

no

lateral

adjust-

ment

is

necessary

when

width

of

trim

is

changed.

Lower

knife

may

be

secured

in

any

position

by

tight-

ening

screw

(B)

and

locking

nut

(C)

against

support

bracket.

Because

screw

(B)

also

serves

as

latch

for

th

e

cloth

plate

latch

spring,

it

should

always

be

locked

w

it

h

nut

(C)

even

when

screw

is

not

tightened

against

low

er

kn

i

fe

holder.

SETTING

THE

UPPER

KNIFE

Replace

upper

knife

assembly.

Cl

a

mp

u

ppe

r

kni

fe (D,

Fig.

13)

in

position,

setting

nut

(E)

to

hold

cl

a

mp

(F ) in

its

most

clockwise

position

ag

ainst

upper

knife

.

Upper

knife

chain

guard

(J)

should

be

positioned

s o t

hat

th

e

guarding

section

is

approximately

1/64

i

nch

be

hind

the

cutting

edge

and

in

contact

with

the

top

surfac

e of t

he

upper

knife.

10

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

UnionSpecial 39500MK Instruction sheet

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