INSTALLING THE VALVE BLOCKS
STEP #2 - Apply a quality silicone caulking compound to the floor
side of the rubber gasket away from the activator disk.
(Warning;
Do not use excessive amount of caulking as this may glue the acti-
vator disk in place and make removal difficult should future service
be required)
With the #8 x 1” stainless steel countersunk screws
provided mount the activator disk to the finished floor. Use the
concrete anchors provided if required
(Model 1780 in-floor activators
are provided with regular #2 Phillips head screws or tamper-
resistant 5/32" center to center hole type screws upon request).
CAUTION DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SCREWS particularly on
uneven floor coverings such as ceramic or porcelain tile. This may
damage the disk, cause it to warp and become unusable. Extra
caulking or mortar may be required to "bridge" uneven sections. If
the mounting service is exceptionally uneven use 3/16” ID washers
on the screws between the activator disk and floor to bridge the
gaps. The activator disk must be installed completely level and sta-
ble. If there are any questions or concerns in this or any other re-
gard please do not hesitate to contact us at 1-800-791-8117 and
ask for tech support.
Tapmaster valve blocks are connected in-line between the hot and cold
shut off valves and the faucet tubes as shown in Figure 2.
(Note:
The valve blocks are identical in function and may be used on either
hot or cold water lines. Position them according to how the control
tubing will be routed).
STEP #1 - Hook up the control tubes from the floor activator to the
valve block with the plastic sleeves provided as per the color-coded
arrangement in Figure 7.
(Note: To facilitate the installation of the
tubing and sleeves, dip the ends of the tubing into hot soapy water
and, using a pair of needle nose pliers, push the tubing on to the barb fittings. An adjustable
wrench opened to the diameter of the tubing will assist in pushing on the sleeves. Take care not
to damage the barb fittings or crush the tubes).
If a tube must be removed from a barb fitting,
split the tube along its length with a sharp knife
(Do not pull as this may damage the barb).
STEP #2 - Turn off the water supplies and place a bucket underneath the shut off valves to
catch water that may run out of the plumbing.
(Hint: Closing the faucet handles will minimize
leakage)
. Loosen the compression nuts on the riser tubes from the faucet at the shut-off valves. If
the faucet utilizes copper tube risers, bend and reposition the tubes in such a manner as to create
a 1-1/2" gap
(Do not kink).
To simplify the installation, replace the copper risers with flex risers
(available at most hardware stores)
. If this cannot be readily accomplished
the tubes will have to be shortened approximately 1-1/2”. Cut the tubes with
a tube cutter. If a tube cutter is not available a hacksaw may be used,
however be sure to de-bur and square the ends. Extra compression nuts and
sleeves are provided should the tubes need to be cut.
STEP #3 - Prior to installing the valve blocks, open the shut-off valves
momentarily to flush out any debris in the water lines. Large pieces of water
borne debris will be trapped by the filter/screen in the valve blocks and may
reduce water flow or cause noisy operation. As shown in Figure 8 connect
the valve block(s) with the integrated nut (input) to the shutoff fitting and the
faucet riser to the compression thread (output). Finger tighten only until both
valve blocks are in position. Be sure the plastic control tubing and fittings are
not damaged in any manner.
STEP #4 - Proceed to tighten the compression nuts using a 5/8” wrench on
the nut and a 7/8” wrench on the valve block body . Do not over tighten 3/8”
compression fittings with O-ring seals such as the valve block input
fitting. Hand tighten plus 1/2 turn with wrench.
STEP #5 - Verify that all connections are tight. Turn on the water supply
(s) and inspect all connections for leaks. Set the faucet, both hot and cold,
completely open and push the bar activator to start the water flow. Operate
the bar activator on and off rapidly to clear air from the valves. The valves
may experience some noise during on or off operation until the air is cleared.
Allow significant time to pass and then re-inspect all connections for leaks
(Small leaks may take several minutes to show up).
Figure 8
RISER
OUTPUT
INPUT
SHUTOFF
TUBE BUNDLES
MODEL 1786
SHOWN
The activator disk is
momentarily attached to
the optional PVC box
adapter ring (see Figure 3)
with the #8 x 1” stainless
steel countersunk screws .
PVC cement is applied to
the adapter ring, glued in
place and the activator disk
removed.
Retrofit installations will
vary according to the type
of floor, the availability, and
if any access underneath
the floor and the extent of
other renovations that may
be done in conjunction with
the Tapmaster install. For
example, for an "on-
slab" (concrete floor - no
under floor access) with a
floor covering replacement,
it would involve cutting a small trench to accommodate a
small diameter plastic or metal tube (eg:1/2" PEX, soft or rigid copper) routed up into the wall
underneath the sink through which the control tube bundle may be routed (see Figure 4). A
small pocket would also be cut into the concrete to accommodate the actuator valve on the
underside of the activator disk. The trench may be filled in , the floor covering installed and
finally the control tube bundle fished through the tube and the activator disk mounted to the floor
with concrete anchors.
In a situation where the floor covering, such as ceramic or porcelain tile is to be left in place, a
slot may be cut into the tile to accommodate the control tube bundle, routed into surface mount
plastic conduit for the wall, and the control tube bundle grouted into the floor (see Figure 5).
Another example of a retrofit installation would be a wood floor with access underneath (see
Figure 6). This situation would involve drilling a 2" (50mm) hole in the floor. Another hole
drilled through the floor to allow access into the wall and other to allow access through the wall
underneath the sink. (
Note: model 1786 HWC requires a 4" [100mm] hole to accommodate 2
actuator valves).
The control tube bundle is fished through these holes and the activator disk
mounted onto the floor with the template and screws provided.
Another example would be a concrete floor with access underneath. In this situation a may be
simpler to drill or core one
hole at the activator disk
location and another to
permit access into the wall
behind you and the sink. A
"U" shaped piece of conduit
or plastic pipe (depending on
local codes) could be
installed to allow the control
tube bundle to be fished
through underneath the sink.
This example is only one of
many possible solutions to
route the control tube
bundle.
STEP #1 Route the control
tube bundle through the
rubber gasket supplied and
route the control tube
bundle through the floor/wall
to the water line shutoff(s).
(see Figure 2 & 3 for PVC
box install and figure 4, 5 &
6 for retrofit install)
The control tube bundle may
be shortened . Be sure not to kink or damage the control
tubes in any way.
Figure 5
CONCRETE
ANCHORS (3)
SCREWS (3)
#8 x 1-1/4
CS
CONTROL
TUBE BUN-
DLE
THROUGH
SLOT CUT TILE
AND REGROUT
SCREWS (3)
#8 x 1-1/4 CS
INSTALLER SUPPLIED CAULKING
IN-FLOOR
ELECTRICAL
BOX
TUBE BUNDLE
ACTIVATOR DISK
Figure 2
PVC ELECTRICAL
BOX
PVC CONDUIT
Figure 4
POCKET CUT
INTO TILE/
CONCRETE
PIPE CUT INTO FLOOR
-2- -3-
Figure 7
Figure 3
Figure 6
