StreetStrider 3i User manual

StreetStrider 3i

and Trainer Stand

OWNER’S MANUAL © January 2015

16321 Gothard Street, Suite E

Huntington Beach CA 92647

1-800-348-0998

www.StreetStrider.com

23i / Owner’s Manual

OWNER’S MANUAL CONTENTS PAGE .

1. About This Manual 2

2. Parts Identification 3

3. Assembly of the StreetStrider 3i and Trainer Stand 7

3.1 Unpacking and parts 7

3.2 Attaching skis and poles 7

3.3 Attaching the front end 8

3.4 Attaching the rear wheel 9

3.5 Unfolding and adjusting poles 10

3.6 Aligning the front wheels 10

3.7 Adjusting the front disc brakes 11

3.8 Adjusting the rear disc brake 11

3.9 Adjusting the shifter 12

3.10 Folding the 3i 12

3.11 Assembling the trainer stand 12

4. Simple Steps to Learn to Stride 13

5. Safety Equipment 13

6. Mechanical Safety Check 14

7. Limited Warranty 15

8. Return Policy 16

RECORDS .

new models,care and maintenance issues, and record your serial number. You may

also want to register your serial number with your local police department in the event that your StreetStrider is lost or stolen.

1. About This Manual .

This StreetStrider 3i Owner’s Manual contains important assembly, maintenance, safety and performance information. It was written to help

you get the most performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety out of your new StreetStrider. Keep this manual handy for future reference.

IMPORTANT: If your StreetStrider was purchased unassembled, read this manual before you assemble it. The Limited Warranty

found in this manual on page 16 applies only to StreetStriders that comply with the assembly instructions in this Owner’s Manual.

IMPORTANT: You should read this manual before you go out on your first ride.

Riding a StreetStrider can be a hazardous activity even underthe bestof circumstances.It is highly recommended that yourfirst stride on your

new StreetStrider be taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists, and wearing your helmet.

Proper maintenance of your StreetStrider is your responsibility as it reducesthe risk of injury. This manual contains many IMPORTANT,

CAUTION and WARNING statements concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your StreetStrider. When inspecting your

StreetStrider, be certain to tighten all nuts and bolts properly. Under-tightening can result in loosening, parts loss, and component damage.

Over-tightened nuts and bolts can break. StreetStrider parts have metric hardware - always use the correct tools.

IMPORTANT: It is impossible to predict every condition that will occur while striding. StreetStrider International LLC (the Company)

has made no representation about the safe use of the StreetStrider under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of

any StreetStrider that cannot be predicted or avoided, and the Company recommends safe and cautious striding.

Record your StreetStrider model, serial number (on the frame under the bottom bracket; see photo)

and other information below. Retain your sales receipt as proof of purchase.

MODEL ________COLOR____________SERIAL NUMBER__________________________

DATE OF PURCHASE_______________PLACE OF PURCHASE_____________________

3i Owner’s Manual 3

WARNING Failure to read and comply with all assembly, safety, performance and

maintenance requirements and warnings and unsafe or improper use of the StreetStrider

could result in serious injury or death.

2. Parts Identification

Table 2-1. StreetStrider Parts List with Hardware Specifications,Quantity,and Maintenance State.

Parts are numbered in subsequent figures.

DESCRIPTION

HARDWARE

SPECIFICATIONS

QTY

STATE

Main frame bone

Head tube

Crossbar

Front beam

Fold joint

Quick Release clamp

stem nylon lock nut

M6 x P1.0 x L20 x H10 x W10

Snug for secure

clamp operation

Stride pole upper

Left and right side

Strider pole lower

Striderski

Quick release clamp

Composite bushings

Roller bearings

Left and right side, QR on right ski

OD12 x ID10 x L15 x 17 mm flange, at Joint #2

OD 25 x ID 18 x L 20, at Joint #3

Tighten

Foot platform

4 mm screw,

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H12 x W4, flat head

Tighten

Rear fender frame

4 mm screw,

M5 x P0.8 threaded hole for luggage rack

Fender stay

Chain stay

Hand grip

Left and right side, rubber

Twist grip shifter

3mm hex screw

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x W3, clamp

Tighten

Brake lever

5 mm hex screw

Parking pin

Cable housing adjuster

Cable doubler

M5 x P0.8 x L20 x H10 x W5, clamp

OD 10, spring loaded

M10 x P2.0 barrel adjuster with lock ring

Front brake, with adjuster and lock ring

Tighten

Adjust-tighten

Adjust-lock

Joint #1, cross bar-pole

pivot clamp assembly

4mm hex screw

6 mm hex spindle

3 mm hex set screw

Composite bushings

M5 x P0.8 x L25 x H8 x W4, clamp cap

M14 x P2.0 x L20 x H18 x W6, clamp base

M6 x P0.8 x L10, with cone end, clamp base side

M6 x P0.8 x L6, with cup end, cross bar

OD21 x ID18 x L25 x 26 mm flange, in cross bar

Tighten evenly to

secure pole

Tighten

Snug but allow

joint movement

Joint #2, pole-ski pivot

8mm hex screw,

washer,

17 mm nut

M10 x P1.5 x L75 x H15 x W8

OD16 x ID10 x T1

M10 x P1.5 x L10 x W17, nylon lock

Snug but allow

joint movement

Joint #3, ski-pedal pivot

6 mm hex spindle

OD18 X L60 x W6, thd 9/16" right and left,C clip

Tighten

Front beam pivot

8 mm hex screw

3 mm hex set screw

Tapered roller bearing

M10 x P1.5 x L20 x W8, front cap

M6 x P0.8 x L10 x W3,rear end

OD 47 x ID 20 X T15

Tighten

Front wheel and tire

Tire 16”x 1 3/8”, 37 x 349, 80 psi

Front wheel hub

19 mm hex axle nut

M12 x P1.75 x L10 x W19, nylon lock

Tighten

43i / Owner’s Manual

Steering linkage

Inboard and outboard

rod ends

Threaded linkage rod

M8 x P1.25 x L20 x W14 flats on stud

M8 x P1.25 x L10 x W13 nylon lock nut

M8 x P1.25 x L20 rod, right and left thread ends

M8 x P1.25 x L5 x W14, right and left jam nuts

Tighten

Bottle cage

4 mm hex in boss

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket

Tighten

Crank arm set with

Bottom bracket

8 mm hex screw

Square taper

M8 x P1.0 x L15 x H12 x W8, 18 mm flange

68 x 122 mm

Tighten

Chain ring with guard

52 T

Chain

1/2" x 1/8" x 93 links

Rear wheel and tire

Tire 20” x 1 3/8”, 37 x 451, 80 psi

Internal gear hub

15 mm axle nuts

3 speed, 3/8” x 26 thread/inch x W15 axle nuts

Tighten

Front disc brake

5 mm hex mount screw

5 mm hex caliper screw

5 mm hex outer pad

3 mm hex inner pad

Cable housing adjuster

4 mm hex cable clamp

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through knuckle

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through bracket

W5 outerpad adjuster with 2 mm lock set screw

W3 innerpad adjuster, through center screw hole

M6 x P1.0 x L15 knurled for fingers with lock ring

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket and nut

Tighten

Adjust-tighten

Adjust

Adjust-tighten

Front disc rotor

4mm hex screw

M5 x P0.8 x L10 x H10 x W4, pan head

Tighten

King pin boltin front

beam clevis

8 mm hex bolt

washer

17 mm nut

M10 x P1.5 x L75 x H15x W8, socket

OD16 x ID10 x T1

M10 x P1.5 x L10 x W17, nylon lock

Snug but allow

knuckle swivel

Steering knuckle w/

lean stop

4mm hex screw

Lean stop disc

Composite bushing

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, socket screw

W10 nylon locknut

OD18 x T4 with 6 mm offset hole

OD12 x ID10 x L15 x 17 mm flange

Adjust-tighten

Bell crank for 3 speed

hub

2.5 mm hex screw

M5 x P0.8 x L6 x W2.5 set screw

Gear alignment window

Shift cable barrel adjuster

Snug to secure

Adjust

Rear disc brake

5 mm hex mount screw

5 mm hex caliper screw

5 mm hex outer pad

3 mm hex inner pad

Cable housing adjuster

4 mm hex cable clamp

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through drop out

M6 x P1.0 x L15 x H10 x W5, through bracket

W5 outerpad adjuster with 2 mm lock set screw

W3 innerpad adjuster, through center screw hole

M6 x P1.0 x L15 knurled for fingers with lock ring

M5 x P0.8 x L12 x H10 x W4, socket and nut

Tighten

Adjust-tighten

Adjust

Adjust-tighten

Rear disc rotor

4mm hex screw

M5 x P0.8 x L10 x H10 x W4, pan head

Tighten

Rear drop out

Slot for rear hub axle

Holes for rear brake mounting bracket

M5 x P0.8 hole for rear luggage rack screw

M=OD of threads, mm

L=length

W=wrench fit, mm

Specification

Key

P=pitch, threads/mm

H=OD of head

T=washer thickness, mm

3i Owner’s Manual 5

Figure 2-1. StreetStrider 3i Parts. Refer to Table 2-1 for part numbers and descriptions.

63i / Owner’s Manual

Figure 2-2. StreetStrider 3i Parts. Refer to Table 2-1 for part numbers and descriptions.

3i Owner’s Manual 7

Using the 4 mm hex wrench,unscrew the 4 screws that tighten the right Joint #1 clamp and liftoff the outer

cap (Fig. 3.2-1a). Lay the chain around the bottom bracket so that when the right crank arm is installed,the

chain can be wrapped around the chain ring (Fig. 3.2-1b). Lift the right strider ski and pole assembly and

set the right crank arm with square hole onto the bottom bracket square spindle and the top of the lower

section of the right pole into the Joint #1 clamp (Fig. 3.2-1c). Screw an 8 mm crank bolt into the bottom

bracket spindle with the 8 mm hex wrench and tighten firmly (25 N-m, 220 lb-in) (Fig. 3.2-1d). Secure the

Joint #1 cap over the top of the right lower strider pole using the 4 mm hex wrench to tighten the four 4 mm

screws until snug (Fig. 3.2-1e). IMPORTANT: Always tighten the 4 screws of the Joint #1 clamp

following the ‘Z’ pattern shown in (Fig. 3.2-1e).

3. Assembling the StreetStrider 3i and Trainer Stand …… …. …

This chapter refers to the assembly of the StreetStrider 3i model. To assemble your StreetStrider 3i,first view the StreetStrider assembly videos

provided to you on the StreetStrider DVD, then follow the steps and photos in this chapter. Included in the shipping box are the StreetStrider in

parts, an envelope containing the Owner’s Manual, Assembly Checklist, and StreetStrider DVD, and a small bundle in the top tray inside the box

containing the StreetStrider tool kit, a packet of assembly parts, 2 spare inner tubes, and reflectors. The tool kit contains a 19 mm socket wrench,

17 x 14 mm, 15 x 13, 14 x 12, and 13 x 12 mm open end wrenches, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 mm hex wrenches, and two tire levers.

3.1. Unpacking and parts (see video) .

Figure 3.1-1. Unpacking the StreetStrider 3i

IMPORTANT: Save the box and packing material as they must be used to repack the StreetStriderr for any returns.

TERMINOLOGY: The right and left sides of the StreetStrider refer to sides when one is striding.

3.2. Attaching the strider skis and poles to each side (see video) .

Figure 3.2-1. Attaching the right strider ski and pole

The StreetStrider comes in a large box with graphics to show which side is up. Open the box by cutting

the tape and lifting the top flap. The top tray (Fig. 3.1-1a) holds the parts (Fig. 3.1-1b),and the support

layers underneath protect the Strider components. The front wheel assembly and rear wheel are the next

2 layers (Fig. 3.1-1c). The main frame assembly is on the bottom layer. Using the corner cut outs to grip

the bottom cardboard layer, lift that layer and the folded StreetStrider out of the box and set the unit on

top of the box or table (Fig. 3.1-1d). Remove the padding and zip ties to have access to the frame parts

(Fig. 3.1-1e).

83i / Owner’s Manual

Figure 3.2-3. Inserting the front beam shaft

Retrieve the front beam shaft from the bundle of parts, remove the 8 mm hex screw from the front end and slide off the two tapered roller bearings

and the washers (Fig. 3.2-3a). Insert the shaft into the rear of the shaft housing tube and align the flat area on the shaft with the 2.5 mm set screw

in the shaft housing tube (Fig. 3.2-3b). With the shaft inserted, tighten the 2.5 mm hex screw with the 2.5 mm hex wrench (Fig. 3.2-3c).

IMPORTANT: Do not over tighten the small 2.5 mm screw and strip the threads.

Figure 3.2-4. Rolling the frame onto the right side and attaching the left ski and pole

Lift the frame up to pull the cross bar and the left Strider pole Joint #1 clamp out of the cardboard support (Fig. 3.2-4a), and roll the frame over onto

the right side to gain access to the left side Joint #1 clamp and bottom bracket spindle (Fig. 3.2-4b). Using the 4 mm hex wrench, remove the left

Joint #1 clamp cap (Fig. 3.2-4c). Set the left crank arm on the left bottom bracket spindle and the left lower pole into the left Joint #1 clamp (Fig.

3.2-4d).IMPORTANT: Position the left crank facing forward just as the right crank arm. Using the 8 mm hex wrench, screw in the left crank

bolt to hold the left crank arm onto the spindle but DO NOT tighten. Using the 4 mm hex wrench, install the Joint #1 left clamp cap and snug the 4

screws following the ‘Z’ pattern as used on the right side.

3.3. Attaching the front end (see video) .

Figure 3.3-1. Attaching the front end

With the right and left side Strider skis and pole attached to the main frame, roll the folded frame upright and lay it across the table or box. The

cardboard frame support of the bottom packing layer can be used to elevate the front end for access (Fig. 3.3-1a). Slide the rear washers and rear

tapered roller bearing race, with taper facing forward, onto the front beam pivot (Fig. 3.3-1b). Holding the front beam and wheels assembly with

decals facing forward, slide the center bearing housing onto the shaft against the rear tapered bearing race. Then slide the front tapered roller

bearing race, with taper facing rearward, onto the shaft (Fig. 3.3-1c). Position the front beam pivot cap over the shaft front end and secure with the

8 mm pivot shaft screw. Using the 8 mm hex wrench tighten the M10 screw (40 N-m, 350 lb-in) (Fig. 3.3-1d). IMPORTANT: We recommend

adding a liquid thread locker to the threads of the 10 mm screw.

Figure 3.3-2. Attaching the front end (con’t)

3i Owner’s Manual 9

Using two 13 mm open end wrenches,hold the flats of the left outboard rod end stud and unscrew the 13 mm nylon lock nut on the stud (Fig. 3.3-

2a). Insert the rod end stud through the top of the hole in the steering knuckle with one washer above and one below, then tighten the 13 mm nut

onto the stud (Fig. 3.3-2b). Repeat the steps to attach the right outboard rod end to the right steering knuckle (Fig. 3.3-2c).

Figure 3.3-3. Attaching the front brake cables

To attach the front brake cables, route them under the steering linkages (Fig. 3.3-3a) making sure the cable housings are inserted in the cable

doubler (Fig. 3.3-3b). Insert the end of the cable through the hole in the adjusting screw (Fig. 3.3-3c) and then through the space behind the nut of

the cable clamping screw. Pull the cable through the space to make sure it is taut, then tighten the clamping screw with the 4 mm hex wrench (Fig.

3.3-3d). Repeat the steps to attach the right front brake cable.

3.4. Attaching the rear wheel (see video) .

Figure 3.4-1. Attaching the rear wheel

Set the frame on the table or box so that the rear frame triangle is accessible to install the rear wheel (Fig. 3.4-1a). On the axle of the rear wheel

hub,unscrew the left acorn nut and the right hex nut so that there is about 1 cm axle threads visible between the hub nut and the yellow non-turn

washer on the left end (Fig. 3.4-1b) and the hub nut and the flat washer on the right end (Fig. 3.4-1c). Position the rear wheel partly into the rear

frame so the chain can be wrapped around the rear sprocket (Fig. 3.4-1d). !

Figure 3.4-2.Attaching the rear wheel (con’t)

Then slide the rear axle all the way forward into the dropout slots so the chain can be wrapped around the chain ring (Fig. 3.4-2a). Pull the wheel

rearward until the chain is taut,center the rear wheel in the frame, insert the yellow non-turn washer tongue into the dropout slot and using the 15

mm open end wrench, tighten the axle nut on the right (Fig. 3.4-2b)and the acorn nut on the left (Fig. 3.4-2c). Insert the shifter push rod into the

hole on the right end of the axle (Fig. 3.4-2d), then attach the bell crank to the right axle by fitting it over push rod and right axle nut as close to the

drop out as possible with the shifter cable routed along the lower edge of the frame chain stay, and then securing it by tightening the 2.5 mm set

screw with the 2.5 mm hex wrench (Fig. 3.4-2e). IMPORTANT: Do no over tighten the 2.5 mm set screw.

10 3i / Owner’s Manual

3.5. Unfolding and adjusting the strider poles(see video) .

Figure 3.5-1. Unfolding

Figure 3.5-2. Adjusting the strider poles

The upper strider poles can be adjusted to different heights and can be rotated forward or rearward to match the anatomical size of the user and to

be comfortable. Using the 4 mm hex wrench loosen the 4 mm screws holding the cap of the Joint #1 clamp to adjust the upperpoles (Fig. 3.5-2a)

and then tighten the clamp cap using the ‘Z’ pattern as used earlier so that the clamp cap is compressed evenly against the strider pole.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT RAISE THE POLES ABOVE THE |||| STOP |||| LINE AT THE LOWER END OF THE POLE (Fig. 3.5-2b). A good starting

position for pole adjustment will have the user’s elbow bent to about 90° when the poles are vertical (Fig. 3.5-2c). Using the 5 mm hex wrench

position the brake levers in front of the grips and then tighten (Fig. 3.5-2d). Using the 3 mm hex wrench position the shifter with the window facing

the user and tighten (Fig. 3.5-2e). Once the polesare adjusted use the zip ties from the parts bundle to hold the brake and shifter cables to the

poles near the diagonal bend. !

3.6. Aligning the front wheels (see video) .

Figure 3.6-1. Aligning the front wheels

The front wheels need to be aligned so that they do not point in (toe in) or point out (toe out) –they need to be parallel to each other.

IMPORTANT: This adjustment may have been performed at the factory but it is good to periodically check front wheel alignment.This

alignment is important for performance so take the time to do it correctly. First, insure that the tires are inflated up to 80 psi and the strider is not

leaning, the head tube is vertical from the front view. Measure the distance from the center rib of one tire to the center rib of the other tire on both

the front or leading edge (Fig. 3.6-1a)and the rear or trailing edge (Fig. 3.6-1b). The distance should be near 26 inches and should be equal to

within 1/8” or 3 mm. If the measurements are not equal to each other, use the two 14 mm open end wrenches to loosen the jam nuts that are

tightened against the base of each rod end (Fig. 3.6-1c).On each steering linkage one rod end is right hand threads and one is left hand.

With the strideron the floor, lift the head tube up (Fig. 3.5-1a), slide the quick release, QR, locking T-pin to

the right (Fig. 3.5-1b)and stand the head tube fully upright. Allow the spring-loaded locking pin to slide

left, rotate the QR T-pin up onto the fold joint top and then close the QR lever by pushing it down in front

(Fig. 3.5-1c). With the crank arms pointing downward unscrew the left crank arm with the 8 mm hex

wrench (Fig. 3.5-1d) and separate the crank arm from the left bottom bracket spindle.Rotate the right

crank arm to the 12 o’clock position and reattach the left crank arm, held in the 6 o’clock position, to the

bottom bracket spindle and tighten the M8 crank bolt firmly (25 N-m, 220 lb-in) (Fig. 3.5-1e).!

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