2. Airflow through the PCS4 is important. Do not obstruct air going in or out of the unit.
3. Recirculating the air within the attic works well for heat transfer. Locate the PCS4 within
the middle 1/3 of the attic. Do not locate near an end wall where the unit’s airflow will
become obstructed [finned intake side] or short circuited [air discharge side]. Short
circuiting means that discharged cooler air reflects back into the finned intake side of
unit.
4. Heat is drawn into the coil or finned side and cooler air is discharged from the fan side
[the two blower openings]. If the PCS4 is located off to one side the attic’s center 1/3rd,
make sure the coil side of the unit is facing the longest portion of the attic.
5. You can suspend the PCS4 on a platform using cargo straps or small chains. You can also
allow the PCS4 to sit on a platform that is connected to the attic structure. We
recommend that a one inch piece of foam be placed under the PCS4 and that a smitty pan
be used as a second layer of leak protection. This is actual plumbing code in some
locations.
6. The attic sensor can be cooled by the air discharge of the PCS4. Locate the attic sensor at
the peak of the attic and out of the airflow of the unit. This prevents erratic on and off
cycling caused by the cooling effect of the discharge air. Note: The discharge air of the
PCS4 [blower side of unit] can run 20-30 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the intake air
[coil finned side of unit]. All performance criteria was developed on the basis that the
attic temperature sensor would sense the PEAK attic temperature. That is the temperature
at the very apex of the attic where the roof sections join. If this sensor is lowered from the
actual attic peak, heat transfer performance can be dramatically reduced.
7. The pool water sensor can be influenced by the sun and rain. Shelter the pool water
sensor as much as possible. It can even be insulated if necessary with fiberglass or
other materials. Midnight rain “cooling” the pool sensor can fake the solar control into
thinking the pool needs heat when it doesn’t. An exposed pool sensor might also cause
erratic on and off conditions if not protected (sheltered or insulated) properly.
8. The ground can “SINK” heat away from pipes going to and from the PCS4. Insulate or
wrap all underground pipes so the ground does not contact the pipes directly. Bubble
wrap over the pipes that prevents the wet ground from coming into direct contact with
the horizontal buried pipes is usually sufficient. It is not necessary to insulate vertical
above-ground pipes.
9. Use 2" PVC pipe to reduce friction losses and on all pools with a pool pump greater
than one horsepower in size. This is especially important for long pipe runs and large
pumps.
10. If you use the recirculating freeze protection in the GL235, it will disable the optional
leak detection float of the PCS4 and prevent the pump and/or the PCS4 from turning off.
11. The mechanical stress caused by unsupported pipes can crack glued PVC joints.
Support all pipes in and outside of the attic with straps or C-clamps that keep the
weight of the pipes off of all joints and union connections. Do not allow the pipe to sag
in the attic.
12. If excessive attic heat is a local concern, CPVC pipe can be used instead of PVC pipe.
All external PVC piping should be painted to avoid deterioration from sunlight. Flex
PVC pipe can be used in the attic to avoid cementing joints in a closed and confined
