Serpent F110 Manual
THE BUILD
STARTS
NOW
The F110-13 is in stores now and three kits have made
their way to my door. One is already on my work bench being built, for
testing and to finish off the F-1 series here in Victoria, Australia. The
following will detail the build as they appear in step form in the manual.
I have been waiting for over a year now, for the release of the F-110 but
SERPENT held off the release to do extensive testing to make sure the F1
was as near perfect as could be. Below is a short wrap up of the past year
for the F-110
SERPENT HERITAGE:
Serpent started developing and manufacturing RC
cars in the Netherlands in 1980, and has
expanded its RC car program ever since!
Serpent has won multiple World Championships,
as well as European, American and Asian
Championship titles. Michael Salven is head of
design for all on road Serpent cars.
Michael has been racing all his life, and has won
World and European Championship titles, as well
as many German national titles. His experience
and knowledge has also been used to design this
new Serpent F110 car, as the Serpent entry into
the growing 1/10 Formula one class. Michael has
worked together with Nacho Lopez and a number
of test-drivers like Jan Asmer and Ludovic Leflon
and a number of Asian drivers with Team-driver
Yuya Sahahsi heading the team.
Michael Salven
RACING:
Serpent team driver Jan Asmer from Germany has raced the Serpent F110 proto-
type since the 2nd round of the ETS championship, and has won the 2012-2013 ETS
title. The F110 prototype was also used at the TITC in Thailand with great success,
and Team-driver Yuya Sahahsi won a recent F1 race in Japan with the almost final
production version of the F110 car.
The F110-13 and all your SERPENT needs can be
sourced from
www.walterrchobby.com.au
the AUSTRALIAN
distributor for SERPENT.
“LET’S BUILD THIS WEAPON”
The F110-13 Manual is to be downloaded from the
SERPENT web page, easily read with full colour pictures of the processes
you’re undertaking.
I have built all the SERPENT Off Road Range 811T, 811B, 811Be and
never have I come across any mishaps with installing or with any parts
supplied in their kits, Top Quality___ that’s it, and after opening the box
that’s exactly what I got - QUALITY!!!!
The first process was to CA glue around all the edges of the CF (carbon
fibre) to prevent it from possibly splitting I found the best way was to
pour a dab of the CA glue on to a piece of plastic cut off the parts frame,
using the round end and run along the side of the CF, I coated it twice.
After letting it dry completely it was time to start putting it together.
The next step was to start with the front suspension components.
There are 3 different height spacers 1, 2 and 4mm this will give you a
various range of ride heights, easy to adjust simply by loosening the two
holding screws removing or adding spacers then re-tighten
Servo brace - the two bottom servo tabs of your servo need to be
removed I cut them off with a hack saw then smoothed it off with the
dremal.
When fitting the king pin use a 1.5mm tool in the end of the king pin and
screw into the steering block, the manual doesn’t mention this, don’t want
you using pliers or similar as this will damage the pin and bind the spring
movement.
#HINT: I FOUND THAT TRYING TO FIT THE SPRING AND E-CLIP NEAR
IMPOSSIBLE. FOLLOW STEPS IN MANUAL WHEN YOU GET TO THE STEP
FOR FITTING THE FRONT SPRING: REMOVE THE KING PIN FIT THE E-CLIP
THEN SPRING, FEED THE KING PIN THROUGH THE LOWER ARM BALL AND
SCREW BACK INTO THE STEERING BLOCK ELIMINATES A LOT OF
PAINFUL FAILURES, NO LOST E-CLIPS OR SPRINGS.
Next is the rear pod and wing, I attached the factory wing for the build
but I’ll use the 3 Racing FGX wings as they were laying around may as
well put them to use as they fit, just need to place an extra 3mm spacer
so the wing mount clears the rear wing CF mounting brace
Above: Rear pod and factory wing ready to fit to chassis.
Below: fitted with the now standard pivot ball system.
The rear axle supports for the top deck and side spring installations were
next on the agenda. The side springs are to be set at approximately 3mm
down as that is where mine worked well. The manual has them tight
against the top plate.
# HINT: TURN THE CHASSIS OVER AND LOOK FLAT ALONG THE
CHASSIS BASE IF THE POD ISN'T LEVEL ADJUST SCREWS SO THEY
LEVEL THE POD
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