Rheem RUUD AdvantagePlus Operating instructions

TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENT

Technical Service Bulletin

1-800-432-8373

AdvantagePlus Troubleshooting

When first diagnosing an AdvantagePlus, check the following:

•If the unit is not operating, is the power on?

•Is the unit gas valve turned on?

•Is the unit thermostat temperature setting high enough to call for heat?

•What is the temperature of the water in the tank?

•Is there "LOC" in the LED panel window? (Press red reset button on front panel. Allow retrying for

ignition. Then diagnose based on the table below.)

LINE LED is off; does not have 120VAC

Explanation: This LED monitors incoming AC line voltage. The LED is ON when 120VAC line voltage is present

on the control board. If the wall plug is properly wired, you will see a green LED light on the bottom left hand

corner of the control board.

At a minimum, check the following:

1. Plug in unit; check circuit breaker

2. Polarity is correct or ground is missing on wall plug

3. Re-seat CN1 Molex plug on control board

4. Verify display ribbon cable is connected to main

board and display board

Is there 120VAC at the

black and white wires to

connector 1 (CN1)?

Yes

oVerify power at wall plug or line connection

1. Verify power connection in box on heater.

2. Check and remove wall plug. Ensure the black lead is to

the brass screw; the white lead is to the silver screw; and

there is a ground wire present.

Continue to next step

AdvantagePlus Fault Tree Troubleshooting

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24 VAC LED is off; does not have 24VAC out of the transformer

Explanation: This LED monitors voltage from the transformer. The LED is ON

when secondary 24VAC is present. You may have line voltage and not have the

24VAC line lit if the board is bad.

At a minimum, check the following:

Transformer wiring

Reseat plugs on control module (CN4)

Unit appears to be OK. Recycle power.

Is the green LED on

the bottom left side

of the control board

lit up?

Yes

No Replace control board

Remove and check wall plug. Ensure the black lead is to the brass

screw; the white lead is to the silver screw; and there is a ground

wire present.

Check the wiring connections inside the blue plastic junction box

on the heater. Black to black, white to white; ground to green.

If the green LED is not ON, then the unit thinks polarity is not

correct.

Continue to next step

Is there 120 VAC line

voltage from the board to

the transformer?

Yes

oReplace board

Measure for 120 VAC at the black and white wires of CN4

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ECO/VENT SWITCH; Water in tank is too hot or vent gas is too hot or low water cut off switch has tripped

Explanation: This LED monitors the ECO loop in the tank

water, the low water cut off switch and the vent over

temperature switch. LED is ON when all three of these safety

devices are normal. The loop is electrically closed.

At a minimum, check the following:

1. Water temperature

2. Vent temperature at exhaust coupling

3. Low water level in tank

Follow this process in sequence: Recycle power to

the water heater. If the blower does not come on, go to step #1; if the blower is does come on, go

to step #2.

Unit appears to be fine. Recycle power and try again.

Is there 24 VAC from

the transformer to the

board?

Yes

No Replace transformer

Measure for 24 VAC at the blue and yellow wires of CN4

Reset over temp switch. Check venting for signs of heat damage. Monitor unit for poor combustion.

1. Is the vent over

temperature switch

tripped? (Vent temp

switch is normally

closed. When the vent

reaches @ 1800F, the

switch will open.)

Yes

oContinue to next step

Remove the two wires on the vent switch. Verify continuity thru two

terminals at the vent temp switch on the exhaust. Press red button

to force manual reset if there is no continuity.

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Fill unit with cold water. Recycle power and attempt to relight burner.

2. Is the ECO activated?

(Verify the water

temperature in the tank

by pressing the red

button on the display.)

Yes

No Unit appears to be fine. Recycle power.

ECO will trip at 2000F and automatically reset when the water

cools to 1600F.

Measure the water temperature from the T&P valve. If the water

temp exceeds 1600F, then flush cold water thru the tank.

Recycle power.

3. Does the ECO have

continuity?

Yes

No Replace ECO/Temp probe

Disconnect CN3. Check continuity of both red wires thru the

ECO/Temp Probe.

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Unit appears to be fine. Recycle power.

5. Is the low water cut

off switch working

properly? (It has power

going to it; so now we

are checking if the

switch has continuity.)

Yes

Disconnect green wire from vent overtemp switch. Leaving the

Molex connected at the low water cut off, check for continuity

between the two green wires at the low water cut off switch. If you

has continuity, then follow “yes”.

1. Disconnect the Molex and jumper the two green wires.

2. Recycle power.

3. If the unit goes to main burner, then replace low water cut off switch.

4. If the unit does not go to main burner, then recheck step # 4 above.

Fill unit with cold water. Recycle power and attempt to relight burner.

4. Is the low water cut

off switch activated?

(Make sure the tank is

full of water by bleeding

@ a gallon from a near

by hot water faucet.)

Yes

No Verify 24VAC power from transformer

splice.

Recycle power and verify 24

VAC between the black and

red wires at the low water cut

off switch connection.

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PRESSURE SWITCH; Air pressure switch or blower motor not operating properly; problem with venting.

Explanation; Monitors the positive air pressure

switch. Means there is sufficient combustion airflow.

The LED is ON when the pressure switch is closed.

Fault indicates insufficient airflow thru the venting

and blower system.

At a minimum, check the following:

1. Venting blockage (air in and air out)

2. Blower not operating

3. Pressure switch stuck open

4. Vinyl tubing to pressure switch is kinked

Diagnose and repair venting issue. See list of venting

questions on the next page.

Is the PVC

venting causing

the problem?

Yes

No Continue to next step

Disconnect both side of the venting and recycle power. If the unit

goes to main burner, the problem is in the venting. If the unit does

not go to main burner, the venting is probably OK.

Replace pressure switch

1. The pressure switch is a normally open, positive pressure

switch. It activates (closes) on +4.75 inches w.c. If you use a

manometer to verify blower motor pressure you can

diagnose venting. IF the pressure drops below normal, then

the problem is the fresh air inlet side of the venting. IF the

pressure increases above normal, then the problem is the

exhaust side of the venting.

2. Verify the pressure switch is open with a continuity test. If

the switch is closed, replace the switch.

3. Remove either the pink or brown wire from the pressure

switch. If the blower runs, then replace the pressure switch

4. If the blower does not run, then go to next step.

Is the pressure

switch OK?

Yes

Continue to next step

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Venting Related Questions

1. Is the unit vented with the proper 2” or 3” piping as required by the BTU

input?

2. How many elbows/angles in the exhaust pipe?

a. See the vent table in the Installation Manual for equivalent footage

impact.

3. How many elbows/angles in the combustion air pipe?

a. See the vent table in the Installation Manual for equivalent footage impact.

4. How many feet of pipe in the exhaust?

Replace blower

Is the blower getting DC

control voltage from the

board?

Yes

No Replace control board

DC voltage is used to signal the blower to turn on and off. This

signal is generated by the control board. Press the red reset button

on the LED panel. When the blower LED comes on then…..

Measure for 2.0 and 8.8 DC volts on the orange (+) and blue (-)

wires at CN2. You can verify the DC voltage on the orange and

blue wires at the blower motor. If so, then you have the proper

signal for the blower to operate. If not, replace the control board.

Continue to next step

Is the blower getting 120

VAC?

Yes

Replace control board

The main control board passes the 120VAC from the power source to

the blower motor. The blower always has 120 VAC present.

Measure for 120 VAC on the black and white wires of CN4. You can

verify the 120 VAC on the black and white wires at the blower

motor. If so, then you have power to the blower. If not, replace the

control board.

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a. Equivalent footage for combustion air and exhaust may not exceed the specified limitations in the

vent table.

5. How many feet of pipe in the combustion air?

a. See the vent table in the Installation Manual for equivalent footage impact.

6. How is the venting system terminated?

a. Two pipe, concentric vent kit, or V-1000 aluminum kit. See the Use and Care Manual for

examples of proper vent termination on the exterior wall or roof.

7. Are both the combustion air and exhaust terminated on the same plane?

8. Is the separation, and offset within specification for a two-pipe termination?

a. See the Use and Care Manual for examples of proper vent termination on the exterior wall or roof.

9. Is the coupling on the exhaust, and the tee on the combustion air and oriented correctly?

a. A concentric vent assembly must have every joint glued, or exhaust will contaminate the

combustion air. Is the "Y" on the concentric vent horizontal termination only pointing up

perpendicular to the ground?

b. If using the V-1000, the combustion air pipe must be butted to the "L" bracket spot welded to the

inside of the vent assembly cover, and the exhaust pipe glued to the exhaust coupling in the vent

assembly cover.

10. Is the termination adjacent to an inside vertical corner, or roof overhang? Is it within 3 feet of either?

a. This will cause the combustion gases to re-circulate back in to the fresh air intake.

11. Is the termination behind bushes or shrubs?

a. This will cause the combustion gases to re-circulate back in to the fresh air intake. And it will kill

the shrubs.

12. If the termination is horizontal, is there a wall or other vertical obstruction within 4' of the exhaust line of

travel?

a. This will cause the combustion gases to re-circulate back in to the fresh air intake.

13. Are all horizontal exhaust pipe runs pitched 1/4" to the foot back to the heater?

14. Is the pipe supported so there are not traps for condensate in the exhaust?

15. Is the exhaust pipe pitched upward when exiting the no hub fitting on the unit?

a. This point almost always seems to get pitched down because they don't support that short piece of

pipe between the no hub fitting and the first elbow. The elbow becomes a trap for water, thus

adding equivalent footage to the vent.

GAS VALVE; no flame rectification; maximum ignition attempts.

Explanation: The LED is ON when power is applied to

the gas valve. Controls are looking for flame

rectification, meaning there is main burner. Unit will

make three successive trials; then lock out

At a minimum check the following:

1. Gas valve shut OFF

2. Broken or corroded flame sensor wire

3. Connectors on control panel unplugged

4. Tubing between valve and air inlet is present

5. Unit has proper service pressure

6. Gas fuel supply or piping problem

7. Gas valve improperly adjusted

8. Verify green polarity light on board

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Gas Supply Related Questions:

1. What is the Utility Co. meter capacity compared to the total connected gas load?

a. Must be of adequate capacity to handle total load. This includes meter and meter regulator serving

building gas distribution.

2. Is the service a 5 pound, 2 pound, or inches WC service?

a. If the service is a 7" WC service, it is most unlikely there will be 7" WC operating gas pressure at

the unit.

3. Is there an in-line appliance regulator serving the AdvantagePlus?

a. How far up stream is the in-line appliance regulator from the AdvantagePlus?

Continue to next step

Is the gas valve

operating

properly?

Yes

No Replace control board

1. Recycle power to the heater. When the “GAS VALVE” LED is

ON, measure 24 VAC between the yellow and blue wires of

CN6. This is the power to the gas valve.

2. If you get less than 24 VAC, then disconnect the low water cut-

off. Jumper the two green wires.

3. Recycle power. If the main burner comes on, replace the low

water cut off switch. If the unit does not come on, continue to

next step.

Continue with Gas Supply Related Questions

Is the gas

ressure and fuel

supply OK?

Yes

No Repair as needed

Gas pressure (natural) between 7” and 14” w. c.

during firing cycle. If inlet pressure drops below

7” during burner operation, the gas supply piping,

regulator(s), meter, or LP tank, etc. is undersized.

AdvantagePlus Fault Tree Troubleshooting

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b. What size is the pipe between the appliance regulator and the AdvantagePlus ¾ inch x ½ inch

factory installed reducing coupling?

c. Most of the time these regulators are installed too close to the unit. They must be upstream 10',

and minimum 3/4" ID black steel pipe run all the way to the 3/4" x 1/2" factory installed reducing

coupling. No flex connectors allowed, except a Dormont 3/4" ID commercial grade connector.

d. What is the BTU capacity of the in-line appliance regulator?

4. The gas supply regulator must be of sufficient size to accommodate all gas products it will service. If you

have two 100,000 BTU heaters, then the regulator must be capable of supplying a minimum of 200,000 BTUs of

fuel.

5. Is the in-line regulator vented to the atmosphere?

a. If not, is the regulator equipped with a "vent limiter"?

b. In our experience some regulators are prone to field problems with inconsistent regulator

performance. They have vent-limiting devices, and do not respond well.

6. Verify the gas orifice is installed, and it is the correct orifice for the gas in use.

7. Is there a fabricated drip leg to keep debris out of the gas valve?

Adjust the AdvantagePlus using a CO meter. CO above 10 parts per million will cause premature igniter failure,

premature burner failure, and huffing and puffing sounds.

Many installations on natural gas are victims of insufficient gas volume due to inadequate gas available on the

job. Meter sizing, and building distribution piping, more often than not, is the culprit. In addition, CSST

(Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) is a major problem! This material may be used only on 2-pound systems to

supply high-pressure gas to the appliance regulator, assuming it is properly sized for the job. The low-pressure

gas from the regulator to the AdvantagePlus must be 10 feet of 3/4" ID black steel pipe.

Igniter; Power to igniter

Explanation: Monitors igniter element output. The

LED is ON when 120VAC power is applied to the

igniter.

At a minimum, check the following:

1. Igniter current draw is too low.

2. Molex is connected.

Does the igniter have

voltage?

Yes

Replace control board

Measure for 120 VAC at CN5.

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