Petzl GRIGRI2 User manual
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 1
Welcome to “Product Experience”.
Here you will find known usage techniques for certain products.
This technical information comes from the product knowledge of the Petzl team and from the
experience of users worldwide.
The level of experience necessary to perform each technique is indicated by a pictogram (see
opposite):beginner, certified, or expert.
Our goal is to (eventually) offer a complete set of techniques.
Your help is important to us; do not hesitate to give us your comments and suggestions.
Thank you and good reading.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE
To go beyond...
The Product Experience
• is a supplement to the information in the Instructions For Use.
• is inseparable from the Instructions For Use.
Beginner technique
Technique usable by a trained
practitioner of the activity
Technique for a certified
practitioner
Technique for a person trained and
certified in the activity
Expert technique
Technique only for experts in the
activity
Anchor
Load
Climber
Fall
Hand
Harnesses
Victim
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
• Read the instructions for use carefully before looking at the following techniques.
• You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions For Use to be
able to understand this supplementary information.
• Mastering these techniques requires specic training.
• Work with a professional to conrm your ability to perform these techniques safely and
independently before attempting them unsupervised.
FAILURE TO HEED ANY OF THESE WARNINGS MAY RESULT
IN SEVERE INJURY OR DEATH
IMPORTANT / REMEMBER
Legends
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 2
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Summary
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
• Reminder of rope compatibility:GRIGRI and GRIGRI2 p. 3
> Belaying / Protecting
•Belaying reminders:errors to avoid p. 4
• Dynamic belaying p. 8
• Belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground:WARNING, Danger! p. 9
• Unblocking a rope that is jammed behind the cam p. 10
• Multipitch climbing p. 11
- Belaying a second with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional p. 11
- Belaying a second directly off the anchor p. 12
• A Self-belaying is prohibited! p. 13
> Descending
• Descending on one strand of rope p. 14
• Descending on one strand with additional braking p. 16
• Tying off the GRIGRI to have your hands free p. 16
• Lowering with the GRIGRI on the harness, using a directional p. 17
• Lowering from a xed anchor-point p. 18
• Self-lowering p. 19
> Climbing / Progressing
• Occasional rope climbing p. 20
• Tensioning a tyrolean p. 21
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 3
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
Introduction
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Today, GRIGRI use is widespread. It can be found at crags, gyms,
and in the mountains... Used mainly as a belay device, it has other
uses that are explained below.
WARNING, as with all climbing and mountaineering activities, it is essential to master
the techniques and understand the limitations on using this product in these activities.
Practice the techniques presented in a safe environment before using them in a real
situation.
Both GRIGRI are compatible with single dynamic ropes (CE EN892). Only the approved rope diameters
differ. WARNING, even if you use a rope in the approved diameter range, you must be vigilant concerning
the functioning of the GRIGRI with this rope.
The compatibility between the GRIGRI and the rope used is dependent on more than just the rope’s
diameter. The rope’s texture, sheath treatments on new ropes, moisture, the state of wear, and ice play an
important role in the performance of your GRIGRI, in belaying, and also in descending.
Whenever you need to use a rope other than your usual rope, take care and familiarize yourself with
its behavior with the GRIGRI in belaying and descending.
•Reminder of rope compatibility
GRIGRI and GRIGRI2
8,9 9 10 11
ropes mm
GRIGRI2
GRIGRI
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 4
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
- Giving slack quickly.
> Belaying / Protecting
•Belaying reminders:errors to avoid
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Remember that the correct technique for belaying is as follows.
For effective and secure belaying, this is the technique to use.
- Primary belaying position.
This action must be momentary. Once the leader has clipped, your hand must return to the primary belaying position. Continuous
contact with the device can lead to misuse.
This technique allows the braking side of the rope to always be held by the hand (with at least three fingers) and it limits the risk of
blocking the cam’s action.
Hold the rope
The index finger
supports
the GRIGRI
The thumb
presses on
the cam
Always hold
the braking side
of the rope.
Taking up slack
Stopping a fall
Giving slack
Taking up slack
Stopping a fall
Giving slack
Taking up slack
Stopping a fall
Giving slack
The rope
is still held
(3 fingers
minimum)
The thumb
presses on
the cam
2
3
1
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 5
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Note that the use of incorrect belay technique is the primary risk factor in an accident, especially when the belayer is surprised by a
fall. If you recognize yourself in any of these illustrations of incorrect technique, adopt the technique presented at the beginning of
this paragraph.
I hold the GRIGRI with my entire hand
I incorrectly place my index finger
I give slack without holding
the braking side of the rope
I hold the climber side of the rope
We place great emphasis on the need to hold the braking side of the rope.
But why?
The term “belay device with assisted braking,” which describes the GRIGRI, indicates that it is not an autolocking device. In fact,
you may notice that if you slide your rope slowly through the device (especially for small diameter rope), it does not necessarily
lock, and the rope slides freely through it. It’s when you pull the braking side of the rope that the cam rotates to brake the rope.
It is also important to stress the fact that any blocking of the device or the cam will negate the braking action on the rope. This is
why it is essential to avoid:grasping the device with your whole hand, keeping your thumb permanently on the cam, blocking the
cam,etc.
Here are three examples of causes of a ground fall, seen at the crags or in the gym.
1 - Incorrect GRIGRI belay techniques
It is difficult to make an exhaustive list of all incorrect techniques. Here are some illustrations:
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 6
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GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
2 - Bad reexes
When a person is surprised while holding an object in the hand, one of the first reflexes is to hold that object more tightly. Imagine
this situation in the case of a belayer holding a GRIGRI with the whole hand, at the moment the climber falls...
In this case, the belayer clenches the GRIGRI, without holding the braking side of the rope, and the climber falls to the ground.
Another bad belayer reflex is to grip the climber’s side of the rope.
In this case, the belayer burns his hand with the rope and worse, prevents the GRIGRI’s cam from rotating, which then cannot
brake the rope. Here also, the climber falls to the ground.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 7
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
3 - Belayer inattention The belayer is talking, looking elsewhere...
Look at this example:the belayer, hands in pockets, is not at all attentive to the climber, who is in the process of
clipping with far too much slack...
To finish, ground falls are often the result
of multiple factors:poor technique, inattention,etc.
It is up to you to limit these factors.
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 8
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
> Belaying / Protecting
•Dynamic belaying
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Some think it is difficult to
belay dynamically with the
GRIGRI. But it is the belayer,
not the belay device, that plays
the primary role in dynamic
belaying.
The key to dynamic
belaying:step or make a
small jump forward when the
climber falls. We also stress
that dynamic belaying does
not mean keeping 3-4m of
slack in the climber’s side of
the rope:this does not reduce
the force of a fall. In addition,
in the case where the climber
has not gained enough height,
it increases the risk of a ground
fall.
In any case, it is necessary to
be attentive and vigilant while
belaying, so that potential falls
can be anticipated. Remember
that where there is a risk of a
ground fall, or striking a ledge,
a dynamic belay should not be
used.
It takes practice to master
dynamic belaying. To practice,
start with falls sufficiently high
relative to the ground (for
example, when the climber is
nearing the end of a pitch).
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 9
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
This technique is strongly discouraged because it has been the root cause of many ground falls. In fact, if the GRIGRI is positioned
at the wrong height for the belayer, he risks involuntarily blocking the cam and preventing it from braking the rope.
In addition, with a GRIGRI anchored to the ground, controlling the descent is more difficult than with the GRIGRI on the belayer
because the weight of the climber cannot be felt. Finally, this technique does not allow for dynamic belaying.
> Belaying / Protecting
• Belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground:
WARNING, Danger!
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
PRODUCT EXPERIENCE - GRIGRI2 D145030A (180111) 10
READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
In certain specific cases (for example, assisting the climber in regaining a high point after a fall, GRIGRI fixed on a carabiner
attached to two points, rope climbing, etc.), the rope can become jammed behind the cam. Don’t worry:this jamming does not
damage the rope. Our internal testing shows that even with the smallest diameters, the rope remains intact, even if the climber
falls. Note also that even with the rope in this position, the cam functions normally and the climber’s fall will be arrested.
Unjamming the rope is simple. Always hold the braking side of the rope when performing this action. If the rope is not under
tension, push on the side of the device to reposition the climber side of the rope in the cam groove. If the rope is already under
tension, simply pull on the braking side of the rope.
> Belaying / Protecting
•Unblocking a rope that is jammed behind the cam
GRIGRI EXPERIENCE
Initial state: the rope is jammed
Initial state: the rope is jammed
Unjamming, if the climber side of the
rope is under tension: pull on the braking
side of the rope
Unjamming, if the climber side of the
rope is not under tension: push on the
device to reposition the climber side of the
rope in the cam groove
This manual suits for next models
1
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