2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
Page 14
6. .1: EXTRACTION OF KP5AX FLANGED BEARINGS
Tools required: KP5AX bearing press tool.
6mm AF Allen Key
10mm AF Spanner.
To remove the KP5AX flanged bearings from the Link Body (4). Assemble the parts as
shown in Fig 10a. Using the 6mm Allen Key and 10mm spanner, tighten the assembly to-
gether until the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) is pressed out of the Link Body (4). Repeat on
all 7 other KP5AX flanged bearings.
6. . : INSERTION OF KP5AX FLANGED BEARINGS
Tools required: Whyte KP5AX bearing press tool.
6mm AF Allen Key
10mm AF Spanner
Loctite 638
Before re-assembling both front and rear link assemblies, make sure all the components
are clean from dirt and have been thoroughly de-greased. To press the KP5AX flanged
bearings (5) into the Link Body (4) apply a small amount of Loctite 638 to the outside di-
ameter of the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) and to the inside bearing bore of the Link Body
(4). Next assembly the components as illustrated in Fig.10b, noting how the bearing’s
flanged side must face towards the middle of the link. It is very important to make
sure the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) and Bearing Insertion tool 1 (3) are squarely seated
against the Link Body (4). With great care, slowly tighten the M8 ocket head cap screw
(7) with the 6mm Allen key and 10mm panner until you can see the KP5AX bearing (5)
being pressed squarely into the Link Body (4). Once the KP5AX flanged bearing is fully
seated and you can no longer tighten the M8 ocket Head Cap crew further, undo the nut
and bolt and wipe away any excess Loctite from around the KP5AX flanged bearing, espe-
cially from the threads of the link. Repeat for the remaining 7 KP5AX Bearings. Finally,
check that the bearings are aligned with each other by inserting an M8 haft through each
pair of bearings at each ends of the link. The shaft must pass through freely. If not, then
the bearings are not sitting squarely in the links. Use the Bearing Insertion tool 1 (3)
again to square them up and confirm that by inserting the M8 haft again.
6. .3: REASSEMBLY OF QUAD-LINKS
Tools required: Molykote Silicon 111
Before re-assembling the Middle hield Washer Components (3 see Fig.9), apply a good
quantity of Molykote 111 ilicon on top of the KP5AX flanged bearings. The Molykote ili-
con should completely cover each bearing and be applied on both sides of each bearing as
it is assembled into the Link Body. Next assemble the hield Washer Components (3 see
Fig.9), If you have applied enough Molykote 111 ilicon, it should spread from under the
hield Washer component as they are positioned, so as to protect the bearing from con-
tamination. Wipe this excess ilicon away from around the hield Washer Components.
APPLICATION OF SKF LG/AF or Castrol Optimol T ANTI-FRET PASTE
Once the Links have been assembled correctly, SKF LGAF 3 Compound or Castrol
Optimol T must be applied to all outside faces of the bearing flanges, that contact
the Main Frame and Swinging Arm. It is additionally recommended to apply SKF
2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
2011 Marin Attack Trail Service Manual
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if the bike feels choppy and not plush then the re-bound damping is too fast. A bit of trial
and error is needed to get the exact setting. Riders may choose to change their settings,
while stationary, depending on the terrain they are riding.
3.3: SET UP OF REAR SHOCK
Tools Required: Good Quality Shock Pump.
Please note that for the detailed instructions for servicing and all matters relating to the
rear shock, please refer to the manufacturers instructions. The rear shock is pre-set with
standard settings when you buy your Marin. Before riding, you will need to fine adjust the
sag setting on the rear shock. This is to ensure it is set-up correctly for your own body
weight, so the shock will perform as intended.
The correct ‘sag’ can be found using the sliding ‘o’ ring fitted to the shaft of the shock pis-
ton. lide the ‘o’ ring against the shock body. Then gently sit on the bike in your normal
riding position. Carefully dismount and measure the distance the ‘o’ ring has moved away
from the shock body. The optimum distance for the Marin QUAD 2 system is between
12mm (25%) and 15mm (30%) displacement from the ‘o’ ring back up to the shock body.
25% sag gives a firmer ride, and 30% sag gives a plusher ride. Trial and error is required
to arrive at a setting which you are happy with.
If there is less sag than required, fit a shock pump and release air pressure. Conversely if
there is greater sag than required, fit the shock pump and increase air pressure. Repeat
the ‘sag’ test until the desired displacement is achieved.
Rear uspension et-up - Rebound Damping:
When the shock is being compressed, this is known as the compression stroke. As the sus-
pension recovers from compression back towards its full length, this is called the re-bound
stroke. All the shocks fitted as standard to the Marin full suspension bikes have factory set
compression damping, and manually adjustable rebound damping.
Rebound Damping Adjustment:
This adjustment fine-tunes the speed at which the rear wheel returns to its normal ride
height after hitting a bump. The adjuster is coloured red and is found on the rear shock .
An arrow marked slower indicates the direction to turn the dial to slow down the re-bound
speed of the suspension. To demonstrate the effect of this, turn the adjuster to its slowest
setting. Press down on the saddle to compress the suspension, then release the load. The
suspension recovers very slowly to its original position.
Repeat the above with the adjuster turned to the fastest setting and the difference will be
seen immediately the load is released. We recommend the optimum setting is to adjust the
re-bound damping to be as slow as possible, but not so slow that the normal ride height is
not recovered. On very rough terrain, if the rear of the bike becomes progressively lower
as more bumps are hit then the re-bound damping is set too slow. On the other hand if the
bike feels choppy and not plush then the re-bound damping is too fast. A bit of trial and
error is needed to get the exact setting. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always stop riding
when making adjustments of any kind to the bicycle!
