Laser Hive G5 User manual

Instructions for G5 backplate replacement and motherboard mounting.

Kit contents:

See end page.

Instructions.

The case should be stripped of all electrical items and ﬁttings prior to kit installation

so as to avoid problems with drilling swarf. The directions below do not detail the

full stripping process.

BACKPLATE

1. With the G5 stripped and fans removed, offer up the backplate to the rear of the G5 and

do a test ﬁt. Test ﬁtting means simply laying the backplate against the rear of the G5

and ,using the PCI slots as a reference and starting from the upper right hand corner

place the short M3 screws through aligned holes in the G5 backplate.

2. With the new backplate lying against the G5 back, this will show you where you will

need to cut away material. I suggest scribing around the inside of where the fan holes will

be, as well as around the I/O cut out. REMEMBER you must keep the material of the G5

backplate that you are going to secure the screws to, so it is a good idea to mark with a

pen or similar the position of the mount holes. The panel should sit like this:

3. Once you have marked up the areas to be removed, you can start cutting the G5 back.

If in doubt under cut and then go back and cut more later - you can always remove

material, but putting it back is not so easy....

4. The Picture below shows an example of the material to be cut away. Note that in this

picture, more material than is necessary has been cut away - this is because this test

case previously had a different style of backplate attached to it - so you can make

neater smaller cuts than shown here. Importantly: the mesh needs to be cut right up to

the wall of the PCI compartment as shown, and one full column of holes needs to be left

on the left and the right hand side. Also, make sure one row of holes remains above the

top of the power plug outlet. Generally leave as much material of the original back intact

as you can.

5. Once you have made the cuts test ﬁt the new back. This time, once you have loosely

fastened the new back plate into place offer up a 120mm fan to the hole and see if all

ﬁts well. If there is too much of the original back to allow the fan assembly to ﬁt, then

make a note of where the problem is, take the backplate off and do any needed extra

cutting.

6. Take the trim plate and arrange the 6 long standoffs like this:

6. Having done this you can now fasten the backplate to the rear of the G5. There are 6

M3 countersunk bolts and nyloc nuts which ﬁx the blue circled areas of the plate. The

trim plate standoffs ﬁx to the areas circled in red and attach through the front with 6

more M3 screws.

7. Now the interior looks like this:

11.You have now ﬁnished all the adaptations to the back of the G5 and can place your

120mm fan into position. However, if you are also ﬁtting the motherboard tray then we

suggest you leave the fan placement until later. Fan ﬁxing is standard - simply use the

ﬁxings that came with your 120mm fan to fasten it to the backplate.

MOTHERBOARD TRAY

1. Turning to the inside of the G5 we come to the ﬁtting of the motherboard tray. First

though, there are some “non” standoffs that need to be removed from the G5 case

completely. These are the button headed (i.e. not threaded) standoffs that were used to

locate the original motherboard and which allowed the motherboard to slide in elongated

slots. The photograph below shows one example of these standoffs - all similar

standoffs to these should be removed.

2. Now is a good time to just do a quick test ﬁt of your motherboard tray into the G5. Take

the tray and place the tray in the G5 as shown below. Note that standoff positions in the

G5 will vary according to model. The principle though is that standoff posts within the

motherboard outline (red) and not used to ﬁx the tray in position need to be removed or cut

down.

3. For a few G5s, you may ﬁnd you need to attach the motherboard tray to standoffs that are inside

the footprint of the ATX motherboard. For instance, in the motherboard tray shown below, the

tray had to be attached at the points arrowed. For these two mount points the standoffs had to

be reduced in size by the use of a dremel tool or hacksaw so that when the motherboard was

mounted to the tray there was no chance of them interfering with it.

The top of the tray will be ﬁxed in position by using these shelf mounting points:

3. Having done the test ﬁt, now take the board out of the G5, detach the red circled

standoffs (you can simply remove them by tapping them lightly with a hammer to give a

sideways jolt) peel off the protective ﬁlm from both sides of your motherboard tray and

put it back into the case.

4. You can now secure the top of the tray by screwing in three of the supplied countersunk

M3 screws to the three shelf mounting points shown, while the board is secured in place at

the bottom by using other washers and screws from the ﬁxings pack. In the example

shown in the photos it is secured by putting three of the supplied acrylic 3mm washers

over each standoff and then using the supplied M3.5 screws to hold the board securely in

place. Other models may use M3 screws and washers to hld the board in place.

[Note: If you bought an ATX board, ﬁtting is exactly the same except there are two

additional top mounting points and two more M3 black screws supplied.]

5. Now screw the supplied standoffs into the brass inserts on the motherboard tray to

match the pattern of mounting holes present on your motherboard - note that for ATX trays

all mounting points for ATX/mATX and ITX boards have been provided with threaded

inserts and that for the mATX trays, mounting points for mATX and ITX are provided.

Mounting your motherboard.

With the tray in position and the backplate secured, you can complete your buildup.

When ﬁtting the motherboard, it is suggested that you do so with the trim plate already in

position. Just push the metal IO shield for your motherboard into the rectangular opening

formed by the trim plate and the end wall of the PCI slots. As the ﬁt is quite tight against

the PCI slot bracket you may ﬁnd that shaving a small amount off the end of the metal IO

shield nearest to the PCI slots gives the best ﬁt and placement

Loosely associate the metal I/O shield with the rear ports of the mobo and feed the mobo

into position on the tray.

Screw the motherboard to the tray with the rest of the M3 countersunk screws that have

been supplied.

With everything secured, you can now (if you have not done so already) ﬁt your 120mm

fan and grill.

Sit back and admire your handiwork!

For all queries, please email Dave: [email protected]

Many thanks for your order.

Kit contents:

MATX Motherboard Tray kit:

1 x Motherboard tray

8 x 8mm M3 Standoffs and washers

4 x M3.5 short cross head screws (attach mobo tray to lower standoffs)

12 x 3mm acrylic washers (3 per M3.5 screw)

10 x M3 countersunk screws and washers (attach mobo tray to shelf attachment points

and in some versions use to attach lower part of tray)

8 x M3 countersunk screws (MOBO to standoffs);

ATX Extension Variant Motherboard Tray kit:

Same as mATX except tray has a small ATX extension plate and in addition:

1 extra 8mm standoff, 3 more M3 countersunk screws (1 for standoff and 2 more for extra

upper attachment points of tray).

mATX Backplate conversion kit 120 version:

1x brushed aluminium backplate

1 x acrylic trim plate for I/O

6 x M3 screws and nyloc nuts- attach backplate to G5

6 x M3 screws, 16mm standoffs - attach backplate to G5 and hold trim plate in position

120mm fan grill.

Many thanks again,

David Chugg of The Laser Hive, Carnaby, Pecket Well, Hebden Bridge, HX7 8QN, UK.

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